With a grateful heart, I say hello to my family, friends, trail family, and fellow pilgrims near and far. Your continued interest is inspiring and makes me realize how our actions contribute to one another in unseen ways. I have been surprised to see folks from 21 countries and five continents tuning into my story. I asked a colleague upon my return, “why would anyone besides family, friends, and other hikers be interested in my blog?” She said, “I know why; this past two years, we have all been on our own trail as we navigated a global pandemic. Any story that inspires or informs is helpful.”
I promised an update on my experience coming off the trail in a blog about Post Trail Adjustment Disorder. But first, here is my unexpected pick for the song that most inspired me while hiking the PCT. Despite the myriad of rocking numbers from my formative years and those given to me by my fellow hikers, this song and album took me deep every time, and it still does. It makes me feel like a natural human.
A way over yonder
Is a place I have seen
In a garden of wisdom
From some long ago dream
Oh yeah
Carole King, Way Over Yonder, Tapestry 1971
The deep forests of Oregon and Washington led to surprises around every corner with quiet solitude.
The most challenging question that I faced when returning from the trail was, “what does it feel like to return to real life.” I have asked that same question of others, but weirdly, I completely froze. What was going through my mind was which life is real life. Walking in nature day after day with few responsibilities or supporting my family, job, and being a functional member of society. The answer is both. My natural life and my civilized life are both real. The interesting question is how to merge them as much as possible.
What Worked from my Post Trail Adjustment Plan
I identified three areas to work on to ease me back into civilized life. The first was finding meaning in my experience by connecting with interested people. This practice has worked incredibly well. A dozen people have gone deep into my experience, and their perspectives have opened new insights for me. I also shared my insights with my Zen community in several settings. In my relationship with others, I see new facets of my experience. Merging perspectives is the best example of bringing my two “real” lives together. I look forward to connecting with fellow hikers because we share something beyond words, and hearing how this experience unfolds for them is a precious mirror.
Magic Marker and I hiked Browder Ridge in Oregon on a beautiful fall day. The conversation was even more moving, and I learned so much from sharing our post-trail journeys.
My second practice was to find new ways to exert my body to bring me joy and continue my ongoing connection at a cellular level. This practice revealed some unexpected issues. The big one is that I had not realized how much muscle I had lost in my upper body. After doing more research, people in their 60’s and beyond lose a higher percentage of muscle mass with a drop in weight than younger adults. I dropped as much as 19 pounds and then kept increasing my food to get back to a 13-pound loss. The other issue is that I will have a more challenging time metabolizing protein to build back muscle. So, my practice now includes a virtual personal trainer and a lot of weight lifting. Instead of wanting to keep the weight off, now I want to gain it all back in the form of muscle.
The other practice was to get back on the trail. One of my best motivations to push my PCT mileage was to have time in September to travel with Pleasure-Way to visit our son and fiancée in Switzerland. We combined that with some fantastic hiking in the Jungfrau region, and my body just loved to feel the trail again.
Hiking with Pleasure-Way in the Jungfrau region of Switzerland was magical – we even had a local resident serenade us with his yodeling.
What Hasn’t Worked from my Post Trail Adjustment Plan
The third practice I identified was to examine and change habits that no longer serve. I have made a few minor changes, like drinking less caffeine, but others prove very difficult. For example, I am a chronic list-maker and can obsess over what I check off rather than being fully present with each step along the way. I am struggling with media consumption and had to turn off most of my feeds. Habits that don’t serve me seeped right back into my civilized life without asking permission. I will need to work hard to retire habits well past their expiration date with kindness and toughness. In the Zen tradition, these obstacles are teachers who have come to guide us down life’s trail. I look forward to swapping stories.
Have you have ever thought about becoming a dedicated trail angel or hoped that someone would take on this role during your thru-hike? If so, this blog is for you. I caught up to Pleasure-Way for an exclusive interview about her secrets to being the best trail angel on the PCT in 2021.
Thank you for taking the time to join me today now that you have moved out of your van. My readers have been asking – what is the real story behind your trail name, Pleasure-Way?
Pleasure-Way:As is the tradition, my trail name was offered to me by a hiker, Twister, and I decided to go with it. I get some smiles and comments when people first hear it but bringing pleasure to thru-hikers in the form of food, and moral support is what trail magic is all about. It is also the van’s name, so hikers make the connection right away.
Ribs and Scott preparing for entering the Sierra with Pleasure-Way.
Your name certainly worked; I have met hikers that knew about Pleasure-Way and had no idea who Ribs was. How long were you living on the road, and what were some of the high and low points you faced?
Pleasure-Way: Staying in the van for the better part of five months was certainly a new experience. I was very comfortable driving and operating the vehicle and covered over 13K miles since leaving home. The van gave me a feeling of self-sufficiency, and I could control my physical space during the spring when the vaccine rollout was ramping up. I enjoyed the simplicity of living, exploring, and seeing new roads, parks, and towns from Mexico to Canada. I met a lot of interesting people, both thru-hikers and fellow travelers. I won’t miss laundromats or driving the steep and narrow roads without guardrails to get to some of the remote trailheads. I also won’t miss buying deli chicken for trail magic – a real hit with the hikers, but I hope I never see it again.
Pleasure-Way, at Scissors Crossing, was already meeting an interesting mix of past hikers that return every year to provide trail magic.On the road again, Pleasure-Way got to know California’s HWY 395 quite well.Pleasure-Way had to navigate blazing heat, snow, and wildfires.
How would you describe your role in terms of supporting Ribs?
Pleasure-Way:My overall role was to provide options for meeting to make Rib’s life a little easier. There was a chance for a shower, home-cooked meal, and equipment exchange (no longer need that ice ax? trade out the old shoes?) as well as a chance to fill out the wish list (new items from REI, specific food requests). We would exchange food supplies for garbage, clean clothes for dirty, and reassess the plan for the next segment.
Coming off the trail at Stevens Pass – the trail magic begins.All the resupply gear was in labeled boxes making repacking and gear changes easy
What was the most challenging part of supporting Ribs?
Pleasure-Way: The biggest challenge was that the plan changed constantly. We learned this early on when Ribs hiked faster than expected – so the initial plan, which had campground reservations up until Kennedy Meadows, was flawed from the get-go. I had little problem making new reservations in the spring, but it became harder to find open spots as summer began. I discovered fewer available campgrounds with hookups north of Kennedy Meadows, so I had to rely more on private RV parks. Some RV parks were very nice, like the Mountain Gate RV Park south of Shasta Lake. Other locations along the way were less inviting but met the needs for safety, power, water, and sewer. So, my biggest challenge was figuring out when and where to locate the Sprinter van when it was not a meetup day. I also learned that Ribs became very focused on the next trail segment and had trouble planning beyond that. I started making predictions and then adjusted as needed.
Life in the van became the new normal.Dusk at Lake Cahuilla Regional Park near Palm Desert.
My takeaway from your last answer is that you would create detailed plans and be okay if Ribs hiked faster or made some other changes and then you would do it all again – sounds frustrating. I guess that’s why they call you a trail angel. What was the most fun aspect of being a part of this hiking team? Beyond the logistical support, what did you find was needed to support Ribs from a psychological or emotional perspective?
Pleasure-Way:I truly enjoyed hearing the stories from the trail and getting to know other thru-hikers in real-time. At first, Ribs was reluctant to connect with other hikers and was self-conscious about my support. I jumped in and started engaging other hikers, and we both enjoyed being a part of their hiking teams. His physical stamina improved, so he looked fresh coming off the trail, but I noticed early on that he was not tracking day-to-day life as is usual. For example, I told him about a young swimmer from Alaska, Lydia Jacoby, winning a swimming gold medal. It caught my attention since my parents met in Alaska. He asked if it was at the world championships. He did not even know the summer Olympics were going on, one of his favorite sporting events. I tried to be patient and actively listened when he came off the trail, offering positive reinforcement that this was doable for him. I reviewed my latest plan with him for feedback rather than creating it together.
It was common for Pleasure-Way to transport hikers to and from the trail head.Pleasure-Way, Ribs and family greeting a young family with some young girls who are very interested in becoming PCT hikers.
It sounds like you also had to deal with a lot of uncertainty about Rib’s condition when he came off the trail. What did you both do to get him recharged and back on the trail?
Pleasure-Way: We became experts at overnight meetups at trail/road intersections to resupply and get him back on the trail in the morning. We did this 30 times, which was a key reason we pulled so much time out of the original plan. Ribs provided pretty accurate estimates when he would arrive, and he pushed the mileage to arrive in the afternoon. In some cases, I would hike down the trail to meet him, which was fun. I had some high-calorie foods for immediate consumption to start the recovery. He would typically shower, and we would talk about the upcoming trail segment. He would then unload and re-load his pack using a checklist with different gear based on the length and weather conditions. We had a duplicate set of clothing, making it an easy swap. Originally, Ribs only wrote blog posts when he took a day off (zero-day). He started reducing zero-days as the hike progressed, so he would dictate the blog on the trail and then edit it and post that night. Dinners became increasingly simpler as the hike progressed to suit his changing dietary needs. He was typically out on the trail by 6 AM the following day.
Ribs getting his first blast of calories after getting to the van. Finishing a blog post after dinner before heading out the next morning.Pleasure-Way sent Ribs out with a killer breakfast including protein blueberry/banana pancakes, three eggs, fruit and more.
Wow, your description reminds me of a pit-stop in the Indianapolis 500, except you are changing tires on a thru-hiker. What tools did you develop or use to be so successful?
Pleasure-Way: One of the most important tools used during the five months was a daily itinerary of the hiking plan over the entire PCT. Ribs created the first version to capture his initial guess. I used this tool to plan the hiking segments, resupplies, overnight meetups, and zero-days. It was created to be easily modified along the way and, in the end, serves as a detailed diary of each’s day’s progress. Ribs communicated his location and how he was doing every night from the trail using a Garmin satellite device which kept us connected and informed. I was also able to update him on any weather and fire concerns.
I took this initial plan and noted intersections of the trail with roads accessible by our Sprinter van. The large state atlases helped find the roads, but the crucial pieces were the National Geographic PCT trail maps and the Guthook app. After finding an intersection, I would map it through google maps to evaluate the route and check for road closures. I would complete the analysis with a final check back to the atlas to ensure that the road was drivable. In general, I tried to stay on paved roads since the quality of gravel/dirt roads is hard to predict (my vehicle wasn’t 4WD).
Pleasure-Way’s headquarters to do her logistics magic from Brite Lake.Pleasure-Way’s view while staying at lake Almanor.
My takeaway is that you were the one keeping track of the overall logistics and figuring out when and where you could deliver trail magic. All Ribs had to do was walk 12 hours a day; frankly, it seems like he had the easy job. What did you do on the days when you were not together?
Pleasure-Way: I needed to develop a second plan besides the PCT to park and stay in the Sprinter van safely. I could go 3-4 days without electrical or water hookups, staying for free on BLM lands or campgrounds. We would often boondock at the trailhead or in nearby BLM land or NFS campground for overnight meetups.
The ideal situation for me on my alone days was to find a centrally located campground with hookups. One of my favorites was the Brite Lake Campground, a county park outside of Tehachapi, California. I had ten days there, very happy to have the electrical hookup to allow for air conditioning. Sometimes I picked up Ribs and brought him to stay the night in the campground, but other times I met Ribs and stayed at the trailhead, returning to the campground the following day.
I was surprised to find that getting a hotel wasn’t a relaxing break for the most part. It did not remove the need to care for the Sprinter van (where to park, how to keep its power, etc.) For example, I was given a Mother’s Day present to stay in a nice hotel at Mammoth Lakes. I found out just before dark that they recommended I not leave any food in the vehicle because bears will break into unattended vehicles, even RVs, to get the food. I hauled my food, as well as Rib’s food supplies, into the hotel room.
Pleasure-Way giving Ribs encouragement as he left Trout Lake in Washington.
Thank you for telling us your secrets – I have a much better understanding of what it took to be the best trail angel in 2021. No wonder Ribs says that you are the key to his successful PCT thru-hike. What are the top five things our readers should know before taking on your role as a dedicated thru-hiker trail angel?
Pleasure-Way:
Be patient, expect constant change, both of the route and the needs of the thru-hiker.
Find meaningful ways to connect with others.
Let others know where you are.
When possible, stay where you have internet/cell connectivity to keep from being isolated – have frequent phone calls with family and friends.
Buy two Garmin satellite communicators, one for the hiker and one for the van, to stay in touch when either one is without cell coverage.
Trip of a lifetime
Unfolding body and mind
into everything
Ribs
I touched the northern terminus of the Pacific Crest Trail on Thursday, August 19th at 10:36 a.m. after hiking 2,653.6 miles in 118 days. What truly surprised me, and I will never forget, is the rousing cheer from the ten thru-hikers serendipitously gathered at the end of their journeys. A Canadian woman named Frosty had hiked in eight miles from Manning Park, BC to bring a beautiful spread of trail magic, including chocolate, chips, fresh vegetables, and fruit that we so crave. Other hikers had brought in bottles of champagne, and I had packed a flask of 10-year aged rye whiskey. I never put much weight on the actual day of completing the PCT; it didn’t dawn on me how emotional and significant it would be.
My son Mitchell, who section hiked 800 miles of the PCT, told me before I left that this would be “a trip of a lifetime.” I was wondering whether I could even complete a hundred miles, let alone the whole thing. And I certainly didn’t know how significant this experience would be for me. He was right; this is a trip of a lifetime. He also told me that the relationships he built on the trail were as meaningful as the other aspects of the hike. I did not think I would have the same experience as an older solo-hiker amongst mostly young hikers. I was wrong; I felt respected, included, and loved by this community. They are living life all-in and are the most impressive athletes I have ever met.
Given that we cannot cross into Canada, PCT hikers must hike 30 miles from Harts Pass to the terminus and then turn around and hike 30 miles back. I’d left my tent and other camping equipment 15 miles back to reduce my pack weight. I had told myself to spend no more than 30 minutes at the terminus since the day required me to hike 30 miles and climb 8,000 feet. I was with the group for two hours and could have stayed for two days. I will never forget the warmth and love that the hikers shared and how each had supported one another. Amazingly, hikers that I had not seen for three months were there at the terminus, and it was just as if we had seen each other yesterday. Hiking back to camp was indeed a celebration with frequent whoops of joy and my feet felt like they floated up the 3,000 foot climb.
I will let my pictures do the talking to show the 90-mile section from Rainy Pass to the terminus and then back to Harts Pass. I’m also enabling the comments feature on the blog for the first time since I can now respond in a timely manner. I plan to write several other blog posts on topics that span the entire trail, such as what I’ve learned about gear, food, and reflections about the transformative nature of walking. Please feel free to share your observations, questions, or suggestions for future posts in the comments.
I have so appreciated your support by listening to my journey. This blog has helped me to reflect on my experience and put it into words. It is like a photographer looking through the lens and seeing more than they would have otherwise. I never intended to make this trip into something, I just wanted to hike. It led me to the advice of Parker Palmer in his book, Let Your Life Speak. In this beautiful little book, he asks us to look inside to see our place in the grand and magnificent universe we enjoy.
I look forward to seeing you down the trail.
The group of PCT thru-hikers celebrating together at the northern terminus. They, and the dozens of other hikers I shared the trail with, enriched and supported me in innumerable ways.It had rained most of the night at Rainy Pass, but the storm eased as I hiked through the cloud layer.Before starting from Rainy Pass, Pleasure-Way and I saw Stud Muffin, Green Man, and Shepherd starting their hike. Pleasure-Way offered blueberry muffins and a flask with rye whiskey for their celebration in three days. By the way, hiking kilts are pretty popular as an alternative to rain pants.The sun came out on the second day. I took this photo as I climbed from my campsite on Glacier Pass to Tatie Peak.I saw two female grouse next to the trail on the second day. My son, Scott, and his wife, Katie, told me that seeing a grouse in the wild is a rare treat. I had heard the deep thumping mating call of the male grouse since the Sierra but had never seen one. These birds were so calm, almost soulful, as they watched me pass.On the third day, I started hiking in the dark to get to the terminus and back. The dew was slowly losing its grip on Rock Pass as I hiked past at 5:30 am.Sunrise on the third day as I continued to climb the ridges to get to the terminus.Three months earlier, I dreamed about doing a tree pose at the northern terminus. The cadre celebrating together supported me with catcalls and whoops as I gave it my best shot. The border is the opposite of a wall – it is a narrow clear-cut running through the forest. I am the only tree standing as you can see the clear-cut extending off into the distance behind me.Pleasure-Way alerted me that the earlier rain forecast had become more severe for the hike out. The clouds told the same story as we hiked back to camp.We woke on day four in a cloud as we started our last 15 miles of the journey. Thankfully, it eased during the day but came on strong after driving out of Harts Pass. The road into Harts Pass is not for the timid, with 10 miles of cliffs over a road that deserves a 4WD.Our successful cadre of thru-hikers, meeting family and waiting for transportation out of Harts Pass.
Native American Legend provides a vivid description of the formation and destruction of the Bridge of the Gods. As the Klickitat tribe tells it, the Great Spirit had two warring sons, Pahto to the north of the river and Wy’east to the south. The Bridge of the Gods was created as a way for the family to meet, but the brothers fought over a beautiful woman named Loowit. Their anger shook the earth with fire. The bridge fell into the river. Loowit could not choose between the brothers, and some say she perished in the fighting. For punishment, the Great Spirit turned his sons into mountains — Pahto into Mount Adams and Wy’east into Mount Hood. Loowit became the beautiful Mount St. Helens.
Geologists believe that such a land bridge did exist after the Bonneville landslide, roughly 1,500 years ago, sent a large amount of debris from the northern side of the gorge into the Columbia River. The debris blocked the Columbia River with a natural dam approximately 200 feet high and 3.5 miles long, possibly allowing Native Americans to cross the river. Eventually, the river broke through the barrier and washed away most of the debris, forming the Cascades Rapids, submerged in 1938 by the construction of the Bonneville Dam.
The Bridge of the Gods is also where Cheryl Strayed decided to end her 1,100 mile, 94-day PCT hike. Her book, Wild (2012), and the subsequent movie (2014), starring Reese Witherspoon and produced by her film company, has added more mythology to the PCT and this particular location. Her story struck a chord. In The New York Times,Dani Shapiro called the book “spectacular… at once a breathtaking adventure tale and a profound meditation on the nature of grief and survival.” I have met hikers from across the world motivated to hike the PCT based on Wild.
As I crossed the bridge at 5:30 AM, I was struck by the power of this place. It was more than my angst looking down 140 feet through steel grates into the swirling Columbia River. The full moon in the west reminded me of my Zen group’s metta service offered each month. Metta, or loving-kindness, is a practice of directing positive energy and kindness to oneself and then to an ever-expanding circle, including those you dislike. Perhaps this practice could have benefitted Pahto and Wy’east. I wondered how this journey would contribute to me and others. It urged me to look deeper during my remaining days to discover new insights that might emerge. The journey has given me an entirely new perspective of how my two-trillion cells function through my experience rather than my conceptual understanding. I will carry those insights through the rest of my days, but what else does the trail wish to teach me?
As for the details, I completed 2,147 miles in 94 hiking days, including all the open sections of California and Oregon. That is an average of about 23 miles per day. As expected, the pace in Oregon was faster, completing the open sections in 15 days, or about 26 miles per day. I plan to slow the pace down in Washington due to the increased difficulty and savor the remaining time.
I see Mt. Hood from the south the most from the ski areas.Mt. Hood in the summer is a beautiful place shared by many enthusiasts from climbers, hikers, mountain bikers, and even skiers and snowboarders engaged in race camps. My children, all aspiring racers, spent time up here in the summer training in the day and rubbing shoulders with world-class skiers and cleaning the dorms at night to earn their keep.My brother Charles treated me to brunch at the historic Timberline Lodge (shout out to my sister for the great idea). Charles is to blame for getting my father into backpacking which then infected the rest of us. By the way, I don’t suggest “all you can eat” buffets when thru-hikers are in the vicinity.Circumnavigating Mt. Hood requires a series of deep dives into the valleys that are the source of the White and Sandy rivers.This is the first time I have had a close-up view of Mt. Hood from the northwest. You can see why few climbers take this route. I decided to take the PCT alternate route down the Eagle Creek trail, which has been re-opened since a devastating fire three years ago. Tunnel Falls is one of many beautiful falls and refreshing swimming holes to explore.Brother-in-law and sister-in-law, Jeff and Lynne, kindly picked me up at the Eagle Creek trailhead and provided much-needed trail magic in the form of chocolate milk and ice cream bars, followed by a healthy dinner.The now-famous East Wind Drive-In in Cascade Locks is featured as the last stop on Cheryl Strayed’s journey. It was all lit up as I started hiking at 5 AM.The swirling Columbia River and full moon as I crossed the Bridge of the Gods. Chapter Three begins here. I am so looking forward to getting to know the beautiful state of Washington.Hiking out of the Columbia River Gorge takes 5K feet of climbing to gain 3.5k feet in elevation. The gorge is the lowest point on the trail and one of the most anticipated milestones on the PCT.
In 2008, my son Mitchell and I started PCT section hiking with a 45-mile hike through the Sisters Wilderness Area. Retracing those steps, I recalled many funny stories and truly appreciate how fortunate I am that this is my backyard. It is more accurate to say that this is our backyard. These public lands are preserved for generations to come. These lands were the ancestral homes of the native peoples who lived here sustainably over many centuries before colonization.
It is natural and appropriate to have pride in the place we live. That was on full display during the hike in 2008 when I would ask the thru-hikers what their favorite section was so far. I was waiting for the correct answer; “it’s here in the Sisters”. The only response we heard was the Sierra, which did pique my interest to hike there. Over the years, I have doubted whether the Sisters Wilderness was, in fact, as special as I believed it to be. I will let you be the judge as you look at my photos from the last two days. I re-discovered the uniqueness of this combination of volcanic peaks, deep forests, and open plains. I have not seen anything like it.
One of my favorite stories from 2008 was our packs, which we felt were lightweight because they were less than 40 pounds. We were amazed to see thru-hikers zip by with what we would consider day packs. I remember Dragon Ant; he had a tiny pack and was logging 40 miles a day. I can still see him almost skipping over the ground. We got lost in the snow for at least 3 hours, developed an amazing array of blisters from hiking in wet boots, and did not carry enough water to cross the lava flow section. Despite all our troubles, Mitchell went on to section hike 800 miles in 2015, and I crossed the 2000-mile mark today.
The lesson that I share with hikers that I meet along the way is to be patient with yourself. Whether this is your first backpacking trip or you’ve been doing it for decades, you always make mistakes. You must learn and be adaptable whether your body is not performing as you’d hoped, or your gear is not working, or external factors change unexpectedly. The critical thing is that we develop our ability to accept, adapt, and learn from all that we experience. And that’s why every day, every step is a new adventure.
This week I’ve met folks from Oklahoma, Texas, Idaho, and Pennsylvania who have come to hike the Sisters Loop Trail. I welcomed them all to play in our backyard.
Mt Thielsen is the first peak to welcome north-bound PCT hikers. I climbed Thielsen last year and could see into Crater Lake from the summit.This group provided some much needed trail magic at Summit Lake near Diamond Peak; some Oregon hospitality.Diamond Peak from the north is normally not visible from below. This basin has a lot to explore and climb.Walking towards my beloved South Sister, it does feel like my backyard.North and Middle Sisters from the north show the glaciers and ruggedness of this area.I was wrong in an earlier post, this is the way to Mordor.Really, it can’t possibly be almost over. The celebration for completing mileage is getting a bit more subdued.
"Welcome to the Hotel California
Such a lovely place (Such a lovely place)
Such a lovely face
Plenty of room at the Hotel California
Any time of year (Any time of year)
You can find it here
Last thing I remember, I was
Running for the door
I had to find the passage back
To the place I was before
"Relax, " said the night man,
"We are programmed to receive.
You can check-out any time you like,
But you can never leave!"
<start massive air guitar solo here>
Don Henley / Glenn Lewis Frey / Don Felder
The theme song for this blog has been running through my head for 400 miles. I was wondering whether I would ever leave. The California section of the PCT is overwhelming, 1692 miles and a gross elevation gain of 257K feet. And true to the song, the majority of PCT hikers never leave. An estimated 80% of hikers that start the PCT do not finish, and from my observations, most drop out before hitting the Oregon border. It took me 79 hiking days and 22 miles a day to leave. I was struck when standing here that almost two-thirds of the journey is behind me – even more reason to savor every day.
Only the northern terminus milestone on the US/Canadian border is more significant to me than completing California. It felt so good to hike the 20 miles through the Siskiyous and into Ashland through thick forests. I found the passage back to the place I was before.
My blog and photos have been a walking ad for the beauty of California, a great state, to be sure. As I leave, I also have some friendly feedback for the state that considers itself Oregon’s big brother. First, was it really necessary to wind all over the place to see every mountain range? The drive from the Oregon border to Mexico on I-5 is 807 miles. So why did you ask the PCT thru-hikers to hike over twice that many miles? I feel that you are trying a bit too hard to affirm your status. Oregon, home to the humble and efficient beavers, asks hikers to walk 460 miles compared to a 309 mile drive up I-5. We have other incredible sights to share, like the Alvord Desert and the Eagle Cap Wilderness. We could have used a zigzag course and pushed the miles up to a respectable 700 or so. The same is true for Washington. We are missing the Olympic National park, how about a thru-hiker ferry ride?
You get my point; I love you, California, but now I am excited to come home to the forests, bugs, and volcanos. We got this, and you are welcome to visit and leave whenever you want. Here are some funky photos to close this chapter of the journey.
Good intentions aside, this sign on Mt. Laguna from my third day wins the award for least helpful and most discouraging.The Coulter Pine wins the award for best pine cone. The cones have half-inch knife-like hooks and can weigh up to 11 pounds. No wonder Coulter pines carry the nickname of “widowmakers,” but I believe most life insurance policies exclude this cause of death.Near Deep Creek Canyon, I kept hearing revving engines. The trail crossed this “road,” which turns out to be a famous off-road challenge course. And people think hiking 12 hours a day is wacko. The trail passed under I-15, and I just kept walking towards the light. Then I started wondering whether that is what I was supposed to do.Vasquez Rocks in Agua Dulce brings trail weary PCT hikers through one of Hollywood’s favorite movie sets. Before clicking on this link, test your movie trivia skills and name at least two movies set in this location.Hiker Town is the “gateway” to the 40-mile trek across the Mojave Desert. The owner gave me a 30′ description of how he bought the land when he learned that then-Governor Schwarzenegger planned to create a subdivision for 100K people in this area. After buying it, he was shocked that homeless people kept stopping by asking for water. It was then he learned about the PCT. The housing development never happened due to a lack of water, so he and his wife created an oasis that is free for the many thru-hikers that pass each year. We stopped at a remote campground and were invited to join this group of men that had prepared cornish game hens and other goodies for thru-hikes. It turns out that we were being hosted by the current PCTA Board President and other board members. My son Scott is featured in the best sunset photo, and it also captures how tough it is to choose one’s freeze-dried dinner after a long day. I think biscuits and gravy was the winner.Scott and I were trying to figure out where Forester Pass was from the top of Mt. Whitney. Good thing there are trails and navigation apps or we would still be wandering around out there.I loved this DIY Trail Angel stop in the middle of nowhere with all the things a hiker might need and even solar lights for late-night hikers. Limit Situation Trail Magic was unbelievable. This group of friends set up four days a week to support PCT hikers. The food was amazing; custom-made pizza, homemade burgers, and salads. They even gave us their really cool bandana. If hikers want, you can stay for the evening, and they will cook breakfast. Really good people who feel that spending time in nature is a worthwhile and important experience.My most dangerous fall came while trying to cross this snowfield before Carson Pass. With the rest of the hikers, I believed the snow was behind us and did not have microspikes. I fell while crossing above the snowfield with exposure to over a hundred-foot steep fall into the rocks. Somehow, I pushed off as I fell and landed on the trail. Every step matters and this one was a massive wake-up call.The PCT maps missed the fact that we were crossing through the State of Jefferson. Apparently, Seiad Valley was the epicenter to get statehood back in the 1930s, and then WW2 got in the way. The general store has all the State of Jefferson items for sale that you might be looking for. Any aspiring graphic artists might want to help them out with their logo.Pleasure-Way has been hiking out with me or meeting me at the end of sections. This picture is heading north out of Sonora pass.
It is hard to believe that I have now hiked past the PCT halfway point of 1325 miles. I do not think it was a coincidence it happened on Father’s Day. I spent my day trying to remember as many family hiking trips as possible. We had trouble keeping track, so we made a list that now tops 50 hikes. As my thoughts bounced between memories, I realized that I had missed the essential point. Our enjoyment of the outdoors was only made possible because of how genuinely gung-ho everyone was and still is to take these adventures. The family must embrace family vacations, and I had never appreciated how much it shaped the journey I am now on.
The majority of our trips were base camping, where you backpack into a scenic location and hang out together. Let’s be honest; these are a pain to plan and pull off. You’ve got to organize everything, including what food kids will eat, cram everyone and the gear into a car for a long drive. The packs are notoriously heavy, start times often in the heat of the day. The mosquitoes show up just as the energy dims. Finally, life on the trail is not exactly comfortable – sleeping on the ground and the lack of bathrooms is a whole other chapter. There is a lot to douse one’s enthusiasm. And yet, since 1997, we have been out there again and again. So, I dedicate the first half of my hike to those who jumped in with both feet every time.
Glissade training on Mt. Rainier in 1996Our first family backpacking trip into Green Lakes in 1997 (I was 6’2″ before putting on this 70 lb pack)Snow in the Wallowas in 1999 (why are these people smiling?)
As a recap, I have covered 1366 miles in 63 hiking days for about 21.5 miles per day. Numbers don’t tell the story because every day, mile, and bend in the trail unfolds independently. Poet David Whyte wrote the poem Start Close In, which is the perfect prompt for a long and uncertain journey. The opening stanza comes to mind when I look back at the first mile marker on the PCT.
Start Close In (First Stanza)
Start close in,
don’t take the second step
or the third,
start with the first thing
close in,
the step
you don’t want to take
David Whyte
Fortunately, these were not posted every mile.I had to work through many issues to reach 100 miles The 1000 mile mark was towards the end of the Sierra The midpoint marker is fitting, an unremarkable post in a densely forested section of Mt. Lassen National Park
Freezing wind and hail
will surely tear me apart.
Dawn comes, I'm still here.
Rib's tent
Several days into my six-day, 117-mile hike from Mammoth Lakes to Sonora Pass, a day hiker gave me the title for this post. As I shared my misadventure, he said, “Oh, I guess you haven’t heard about Juneuary in Yosemite.” My blank face was a sufficient answer. By the way, Urban Dictionary defines Juneuary as a Washington thing.
Storm clouds hung over Ansel Adams Wilderness all afternoon before the storm broke loose.
During my first day after leaving Mammoth Lakes, I was hit by an unexpected storm that dropped the overnight temperatures into the teens with wind gusts to 40 mph and snow. It was the coldest night of the entire PCT. Fortunately, my tent held up and I stayed warm in my sleeping bag; it is the best.
Everything was frozen in the morning, including small streams.
I decided to get moving early to warm up – I had two passes to climb before getting to Tuolumne Meadows. The temperature was still below freezing but it had warmed by the time I summited Donohue Pass, the last pass over 11K feet. A ranger reminded me that I had entered Yosemite and, honestly, I thought it an odd comment. We have crossed through dozens of national forests, parks, and wilderness areas by this time. Looking back, he was also giving me a heads up that Yosemite is different.
I reached Thousand Island Lake before starting my first passSnow on the mountains surrounding Donohue Pass
Tuolumne Meadows is the gateway to Yosemite missed by 99% of park visitors. It starts with a series of beautiful meadows and the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River as it meanders through the smoothly polished granite peaks. From there, I descended into thick forests and met my new nemesis, the mosquito. The snowpack was deeper in Yosemite than the southern Sierra and had just melted. The one thing every backpacker knows is that you stay home in June when the masses rise from the still water looking for blood. Now I know that thru-hiker DNA dominates the mosquito gene pool. Those tiny beings can drive all of us sophisticated humans insane.
Your purpose is clear
to sip one drop of my blood
anger is no match
Ribs (trying to chill out)
Hiking by the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River The deep forests of Yosemite were such a contrast to previous barren landscapes.Dorothy Lake provided a breeze to keep the bugs at bay during an extended lunch stop.
The third challenge in Yosemite started on day 3, the quantity and pitch of the climbs. The peaceful meadows turned into repeated 1000 foot climbs and descents over “trails” that looked more like scenes from Mordor.
Days three through five included an unrelating series of named and unnamed passes over this rugged terrain.This is one of the more organized trail sections with others looking like stream beds. About 20% of the hikers I talked with developed ankle or knee issues from the constant pounding.
The final day was amazing as I climbed out of Yosemite into the Edison and Emigrant Wilderness areas. The landscape completely changed to wide open climbs and vistas stradling Mt. Leavitt. I was ecstatic to meet Pleasure-Way for a much-needed zero, and we were lucky to give Magic Marker and Steps a lift into town.
The climb was gradual switchbacks but had five different summits to view every side of this new landscape.The wind provided a constant light show reflected from the lakeMagic Marker and Steps getting recharged on the way into town
Thru-hiking like life brings toil and uncertainty to ask who am I? Ribs
I am writing from the comfort of a motel in Mammoth Lakes. I came off the trail today after the most physically challenging week so far with a profound appreciation of the scenic beauty and the responsibility we assume when thru-hiking. In seven days I covered 123 miles with 32K elevation gain from eight passes averaging over 11K feet.
I was joined by my nephew, Peter, an experienced Sierra climber and back country skier. His presence boosted my confidence to navigate the three highest passes with snow.
Kearsarge Pass, at nearly 12K feet, is required just to get back to the PCTGlen Pass, our second 12K pass of the first day, required several steep snow field traverses – not a big deal for Peter but I fell several timesLooking back at Glen Pass from the Rae Lakes
I could have written a nice post titled “Big Day – The Sequel” after two major climbs on the first day. But we were just getting started. Every day we climbed as quickly as possible to summit the next pass before the snow got too soft or possible afternoon thunderstorms materialized. We then dropped 3K feet to the valley floor to camp before starting the sequence again. It makes me tired just listing our Big Week itinerary.
Day 1: Kearsarge 12K and Glen 12K
Day 2: Pinchot 12K
Day 3: Mather 12K
Day 4: Muir 12K
Day 5: Selden 11K
Day 6: Silver 11K
Day 7: Mammoth 10K
We met him at first light of day 2 sharing the river valley, the first of many deer over the weekPinchot Pass featured the barren moonscape of the southern SierraLooking back from Mather to Pinchot Pass showed our day 3 work
Peter and I were most concerned about Muir Pass because of the snow depth. It was the most scenic section of the PCT so far. The intense azure blue of the lakes and sky radiated off the snow and ice.
Peter leads the way up Muir PassThe John Muir shelter, built in 1930, saves lives when storms close in on this highly exposed landscapeWanda Lake, north of Muir Pass, defines radianceThe ice flow moved with the wind, I had to peel my eyes away lest I would still be sitting there
The descent from Muir took us into the magical Evolution Valley. I have tried to hike this section for years but permits and fires have intervened. It is the transition from the barren Sierra peaks to the lush forests that stretch from valley floor to alpine lakes.
We shared our campsite view with the residents of Evolution Valley
The constant pounding of the descents took a toll on Peter. He dealt with a daily barrage of blisters but then he re-activated knee issues that quickly escalated. He decided to hike 16 miles out rather than continue 45 more miles and risk an evacuation. It was a hard decision but demonstrated the most important responsibility we have in remote wilderness situations – know your limits at every moment. Later we concluded the issue was likely using climbing approach shoes. Every thru-hiker tweaks their gear, food, and body care over weeks and months – Peter had five days.
Foot care at its best
I continued north to finish the last three passes and 45 miles. I had hiked this section with Jenessa in 2017 so it was fun to experience the trail again and remember the trip that inspired me to hike the PCT.
Silver Pass was number seven and a crazy day of climbingAfter a full meal, I decided to take on a mammoth mud pie. You’re damn right I finished it with an audience at the next table.
I dreaded the thru-hiking tradition of receiving a trail name. I made snarky comments to others like, “what is this, summer camp, come on.” Most people would shrug at my lack of creativity, but a Norwegian hiker vociferously countered my disdain. He said, “you see, the trail name is important, and it must be given to you by another hiker because something funny happened. When you meet people, you tell them your trail name and then your story – and they laugh and remember you.”
Ribs, Twister, Pilot, Pack Mule, and Rabbit
Upon some reflection, my reaction was masking some deeper insecurities. The idea of being given a trail name conjures unpleasant and downright mean nicknames. Since I am hiking solo and am coming off the trail to stay with my trail angel, I am not hanging out in the hiker hostels where the funny business truly happens. Who will know me or even care about the sexagenarian that hikes at a steady pace 12 hours a day – nothing funny or exciting about that. Even in high school, Shakespeare’s Juliet taught me the significance of our names when she asked, “What’s in a name?” But all that changed with my trail family.
I met Twister many miles ago and did him a favor by giving him a ride. When hiking together, we ran into the rest of the crew, drinking at high noon in Agua Dulce. By chance, I camped with them after crossing the Mojave – and a family with no name was formed. Our family was diverse in years, with 30, 40, 50, and 60-year-olds. We hiked hard for eight days together, covering almost 25 miles a day.
As always, the daily conversation centered on water, how much we needed to carry, and whether there was a reliable source at day’s end. I realized that my trail angel could meet us with the van to provide water. But instead of just water, she brought ribs, beer, fruit, and more. Rabbit gave me the name Ribs and my motto – the trail provides. My name encourages me to pack more food, lest my ribs become a dominant torso feature. Beyond that, my name reminds me of my impermanence and calls me to be present for each and every step
My trail angel’s trail magic prowess grew. She has met and supported over fifty hikers with food and drink that make all the difference. Twister offered her a trail name, Pleasure-Way, to honor the van that she drives, becoming a beacon for those who need an extra boost to keep moving.
Hikers gathering for trail magic at an obscure road crossing
Twister, in red, offered the name Pleasure Way, after feasting on chicken beer, fruit, and Pop Tarts
Miyagi, Twister, and Pack Mule making quick work of carbo-loading for the upcoming 2K foot climb
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