Border to border
takes 5.3 million steps
with beginner's mind.
I am watching the cold rain drip off my office window thinking about one year ago – making lists, buying food and gear, all the while wondering what the hell I had got myself into. Even after completing the hike, that is an unanswerable question because everything changes. What I do know is that I prepared as well as I could and then let go of my preconceived notion of what was going to actually happen. I am dedicating this post to all the hikers going through their own preparation while the deeper questions continue to swirl.
I entered my name in the hiker’s journal at the Mexican Border with little idea what was to come.
I have written about my gear and food. This post is about logistics. Self-supported hikers do not have anyone meeting them during the hike. They hitchhike to resupply locations and either pick up boxes mailed to that location or buy food locally. If you are a self-supported thru-hiker, I recommend using this excellent Trail Resupply Guide from Halfway Anywhere. I used the gear reviews posted by Halfway Anywhere extensively in my preparation. His resupply guide paints a clear picture of what self-supported thru-hikers would have done differently. He covers resupply strategy/frequency, mailing boxes versus purchasing food, resupply locations, food selection, and much more. My post focuses on supported hikers and those who support them, but all hikers might find missing pieces to their logistics puzzle.
I was looking way too clean on my first hiking day on March 28 last year from Campo to Lake Marina, 20 miles away. My journey was one of a supported hiker.
I was so fortunate that Pleasure-Way supported me during my 118 hiking days that spanned 151 calendar days. Her support allowed me to adjust as I learned what gear and food I actually needed. Her moral support was even more essential, as was my ability to recover more quickly during my zeros because I didn’t need to hitchhike into town and run errands all day.
I became pretty efficient at the art of resupply, aided by multiple checklists and a stockpile of food and gear. (taken at an RV park in Susanville, CA)
Even though my hiking logistics puzzle was simpler, Pleasure-Way and I had to work on two puzzles simultaneously because the supporting party navigates a complex rural landscape. We both needed to meet at a known place at a specific time. How many of you have had trouble finding your party after getting separated while shopping or at an event. Imagine an event the size of the western US with limited cell service in remote locations and questionable roads. For more information about how to pull all of this off, take a look at my post, Pleasure-Way: an interview with 2021’s best Trail Angel. Constantly adjusting our plan for when and how to meet was more complicated than my resupply puzzle.
Below, I have copied another spreadsheet to aid your planning, Rib’s Border to Border Logistics. This list shows every hiking day and our meeting locations for zeros and resupplies. We became very good at resupply points that did not cost any miles; in fact, they lengthened my days. If I knew I was coming into a resupply, I could push my mileage that day. Nearly half of my 30+ mile days ended in a meet-up with Pleasure-Way. As you use this for your planning, remember that we jumped to northern California twice to avoid snow in the Sierra and meet family members. We were fortunate that we did not have to jump to avoid new fires, but this is now the new reality for many hikers.
As you continue to put your logistics puzzles together, occasionally take a break and walk the hike in your mind’s eye. The beautiful and solitary moments are endless and await your trip of a lifetime. Pleasure-Way and I look forward to seeing you at the Frog Lake trailhead near Mt. Hood on July 22-25.
I was obsessed with the blooming yucca plants from the very first day – some looked like small trees, others like swaying bamboo. Dropping into the high chaparral from rainy Oregon was stunning.
The Mojave desert was dramatic with constant reminders of the fragility of life.
Southern California slowly gave way into the foothills of the Sierra. Darth Vader was with me as I approached Bird Spring Pass.The southern portion of the Sierra combines desolate mountain basins followed by lush valleys.Crossing Forester Pass at over 13K feet is always a big day, but even more so with many miles of snow to cross.
If Shangri-La exists, Evolution Valley tops my list of nominees.
The wind was whipping and I wore all my warm clothes climbing Sonora Pass.
I arrived at a much-needed meet-up with Pleasure-Way at the Carter Meadow trailhead in northern California.
The Three Sister’s Wilderness in Oregon offers fast hiking and expansive views.
Staying focused on the trail is all-important on the Knife’s edge in the Goat Rocks Wilderness in Washington.The Northern Cascades feel like the end of this hike and the start of the amazing Canadian Rockies.
I am dedicating this post to feeding future PCT hikers. I remember sitting in your chair thinking this idea is madness and the details- overwhelming. But know after your preparation, you will stand at the Mexican border on your start day, throw consideration to the wind, and take the first of 5.3 million steps. I met a PCT veteran providing trail magic that said he feels the energy and passion of the new class every year. It keeps drawing him back to support and meet them. Here is my virtual attempt, and I look forward to meeting some of you when you pass through Oregon.
Pleasure-Way and I have a New Year’s Eve tradition of looking back through our calendars and photos to remind us of the year we are departing. One memory stood out that foreshadowed 2021’s wild and unpredictable nature. My story marks your last opportunity to get permits for 2022 this coming Tuesday, January 11, at 10:30 AM Pacific Standard Time.
This was just another day in the zoomsphere with Kiki, my daughter’s COVID kitty. It was like the day when an algorithm changed my life.
This time last year, I dutifully logged into the permit application system two hours before it opened in hopes that waiting at the start line would give me an advantage. Due to COVID, the PCTA did not issue permits until January. The seconds ticked away until the portal came to life, and I entered the queue. My excitement plummeted when I saw that 9536 people were randomly placed ahead of me to get one of the 2500 permits. I watched in disbelief for a few moments while in a zoom meeting. My place in line decremented every 20 seconds, translating to a 53-hour queue. Any sane person would have logged out. Instead, I trodded upstairs and started harvesting sour grapes. “It was a stupid idea anyway.” “I could never have made it.” During lunch, I felt relieved that an algorithm had rescued me.
When I returned to my zoomsphere of meetings, my queue number was 15. What the hell, where did all those people go? I told my work colleagues that I would rejoin after figuring out what to do when it was my turn. You only have 10 minutes to start the process once you get in and 20 minutes to make your permit selection. I grabbed one of the remaining early permits on March 29. I didn’t know what had happened. I felt like my future just branched, and whatever I thought it was an hour before was no longer. Later, I discovered that other hikers logged into the permit system with multiple computers and asked family, friends, and neighbors to log in. Then they kept the best queue position and logged off the others – duh!
I sent this chat to family members. It reminds me of how trivial things like permits and hiking are in the grand scheme.
There is nothing more personal and unique than the food choices made by my fellow hikers. I am more engineer and less artist in the domain of backpacking food, and my packing ritual looked like an assembly line. On the other extreme was a talented hiker named Tuna, who selected the cheapest food available along the way. He had only brought muffins for breakfast, lunch, and dinner on the six-day stretch where we met. Some people bring fresh ingredients and actually cook meals, and others don’t bring a stove and hydrate their food cold. Some think it is all about calories filling their packs with junk food, and others follow a vegan diet. My suggestions are one slice through a myriad of choices. I broke down the process into three steps.
My favorite meal of the day was “second breakfast,” consisting of an oatmeal concoction and coffee smothered in heavy cream, giving me 1700 calories. I typically started hiking by 6 AM and then stopped after four hours for a proper break. This photo is in the Sierra just south of Mammouth Lakes.
Step one is to determine your daily caloric needs. You can start with your Basal Metabolic Rate, which considers your height, age, gender, and activity level. My BMR is around 2300 calories. My simple approach was to add 110 calories per mile of hiking, bringing me to 4720 calories for a 22-mile day. I like this backpacking calorie calculator, which provides more variables to play with and gives me a range of 4500 to 5350 calories for a 22-mile day. That seems like a ton of calories, and it is too high for hikes of a week or less. But this caloric calculation was accurate after one month when my readily available fat was gone. I lost 19 pounds in a month and I kept increasing my food to end the hike only 13 pounds down.
Step two is translating caloric needs into a food plan. I set a goal to carry foods that, on average, contained 120 calories per ounce. If I assume 4800 calories a day, I need to carry 40 oz or 2.5 lbs per day. I would typically leave my resupply stops with four days of food weighing 10 pounds or around 40% of my total pack weight.
Step 3 is deciding what food you want to bring that meets the 120 calories per ounce goal. I started searching far and wide for interesting options. Not surprisingly, I ended up on some survivalists web sites as they prepare for the apocalypse. Food choice is not just about calories; you must want to eat it day after day. I found that my digestive system changed, so I needed to pay attention to how my body responded to constantly eating and moving at the same time. My food experiment never ended, but I did land in a place that worked well. You can download Rib’s Food List and Calculator below, which shows my diet during the last two months.
Thanks to Pleasure-Way’s support, I was able to load up on fresh fruit and vegetables several times a week. This photo was taken after a 25-mile day climbing out of the San Gorgonio Pass into Big Bear.
I can feel the anticipation and energy build as you prepare for this beautiful adventure. I hope to share some logistical tidbits before you hit the trail.
Hello trail family – I did not forget you. I have been making my site easier to navigate, so check out the blog categories from the menu and the blog word cloud on the main page to visit the pages that speak to those topics. I am committed to keeping this site alive as some prepare for your thru-hiking adventures next year.
I promised to write a blog about gear in early August while on the trail. Here we are in October, and it is still on my to-do list moving week-for-week. This delay is not just my penchant for procrastination; I discovered that I have a bonified insecurity on the topic of gear. My hangup started before Campo and grew as the pros and bros made conversation about our gear. “What is your base weight? Wow, 15 pounds – good luck with that,” followed by an eye roll. The closest thing I can remember is pulling up to a stoplight back in ’73 next to one of the cool kids in high school. He was driving a candy apple red Pontiac GTO coupe with a beefy 455 HO V8 long-stroke engine. I was in my faded turquoise Toyota Corolla 4-door, 4-cylinder, 75 horsepower looking the other way. Those moments aside, my little car, named Nidwin, did do the job just fine.
Don’t get me wrong; I love gear. It is hard to fathom hiking this trail with the 60+ pound packs full of equipment that didn’t keep hikers as warm, dry, or safe as what is readily available today. After my four-month counseling session, courtesy of the trail, I am ready to rise above my insecurities and share my mistakes so you can avoid mine and make your own. Below is an excel sheet that you can download with my gear list.
Kiki the COVID kitty helping get my gear sorted before leaving for Campo.
Base Weight
Comparing the weight of gear is equivalent to horsepower back in the muscle-car days. And, just like horsepower, there is a lot of gamesmanship (or confusion) on what it means. I found two helpful measures. The first came from an excellent blog on gear by Halfway Anywhere. Halfway provides a valuable summary of top gear, and I used his site extensively. He defines the Big Four as a tent, backpack, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad. Invest in these four items because they are half of your base weight and critical for safety. The second measure, Base Weight, is everything in your pack except consumables (food, water, fuel, toilet paper, etc.). My base weight ranged from 13 to 17.5 pounds, depending on my kit (see below).
There are two problems with obsessing about Base Weight. Andrew Skurka’s blog describes his journey to discovering “stupid light.” Hikers that tout Base Weights as low as 7 pounds are unlikely to be self-sufficient when conditions turn for the worse. The reality of stupid light is that other hikers or rescuers are more likely to need to bail them out. The second issue to consider is your total pack weight when starting a hiking segment. For example, for a six-day section, my total pack weight doubled from 15 to 30 pounds. I needed 2 pounds of food per day, one fuel canister, and I typically carried 2 liters of water. I mention this because many thru-hikers use ultralight packs with little support. They work great at 20 pounds or less but became painful above that. The heaviest carries came in the Sierra with a Pack Weight above 35 pounds for seven days of food, bear canister, warm clothing, ice axe, and microspikes.
Customized Kits
My alternative to going stupid light was customizing my kits for different hiking segments. Changing kits gave me a significant advantage, only possible with Pleasure-Way’s support. In the spreadsheet, you will see five kits across the top: warm segments (1-3 nights, or 4-7 nights), cold segments (1-3 nights, or 4-7 nights), and a snow segment. The table shows how I changed my gear depending on what was coming up next. I recognize other thru-hikers do not have this luxury, but they do ship gear to and from resupply points along the trail for big transitions, like the Sierra.
Setting out on the first seven-day Sierra section. We weighed in above 35 pounds and the smiles are not authentic.Happier days with my EXOS 38 light pack and kit for a 1-3 day warm hiking section.
The Big Four
TENT: I used the Big Agnes Ultralight Tiger Wall UL2 tent. I have been a fan of Big Agnes for a decade because their gear is light and durable with excellent customer support. The packed weight of the tent is 2.5 pounds, including the footprint. This tent faced wind gusts well over 60 mph on this trip and temperatures in the teens. It also has plenty of room to hang out, store gear, and cook meals. The downside is that nylon absorbs water over multiple days when compressed into the pack. Dyneema Composite Fabrics (DCF, a.k.a Cuban Fiber) is the most promising nylon replacement material. The price has dropped from ridiculous to a 2X premium. DCF was developed and perfected for high-performance sailing. DCF tents are entirely waterproof, lightweight, and the fabric doesn’t absorb water. There have been some drawbacks, such as ventilation, but tent designers are innovating rapidly, and new products are coming out each year. Many models use hiking poles instead of tent poles to further reduce weight and bulk. Here is a site with some of the most popular models. Plan on a six-month lead time to get an order filled. I would have cut one pound off my base weight with one of these 2-person models.
My lovely campsite at Rock Creek in Washington. One advantage of the nylon tents is the ability to sleep without the rainfly, keeping things cool, and staying connected with nature. I loved this place so much I wrote a Haiku.
Rock Creek
Rock Creek reflected
with leaves gently swirling
to water over rocks.
Ribs
BACKPACK(S):I had two packs available to use in my different kits; the Osprey EXOS 58 and EXOS 38. I am super happy with this choice. They are not the lightest packs, but they have a suspension system that carries more weight than advertised and provides much-needed ventilation on hot days. Using DCF packs without suspension, Hikers looked like they just got out of the shower, covered in sweat from their packs. Whatever you get, make sure you get fit in person from someone who knows what they are doing and then load it up to 30 pounds. I spent 13 days on the trail the summer before the PCT, ensuring my pack was right for me. This piece of gear becomes part of you. I remember talking to thru-hikers over the years, and I noticed that they never take their packs off. I was the same way. I took it off maybe four times during a 12-hour day.
SLEEPING BAG(S):I started with the Western Mountaineering VersaLite sleeping bag and immediately fell in love. This bag is only 2 pounds and lives up to its 10-degree rating. I also love the near full zip feature so that you can turn it into a quilt for warmer days. When the heat started to go through the roof, it was just too much. I was lucky to find the Western Mountaineering SummerLite bag at a fabulous store in Redding, Hermit’s Hut. The SummerLite, a 32-degree bag, worked from northern California to the border but would not have been warm enough in the desert during springtime or the Sierra. When you look at these bags, you may get sticker shock, but they are worth every penny and will last for decades with proper care. Western Mountaineering only sells through small retailers. I got both of my bags from the Hermit’s Hut but order yours well before peak season.
Modeling my Western Mountaineering VersaLite sleeping bag and Arc’teryx Cerium SL Down Jacket on the top of Mt. Whitney. It was in the low teens and I needed all of this and a cup of coffee to warm up.
SLEEPING PAD(S): I also had two options for sleeping pads. I used the Nemo Switchback foam pad in the desert to avoid getting a puncture from the pokey things on the ground. The advantage of a foam pad is that it easily attaches to the outside of the pack, allowing me to use my smaller pack. You don’t need to inflate them, and they also make for a relaxing afternoon nap. The disadvantage is the thermal R-Value is 2.0, which means more heat loss to your biggest heat sink, the ground. They also are bare-bones (no pun intended) when it comes to comfort. For colder sections and comfort, I used the Thermarest NemoAir XTherm inflatable pad. The R-Value is 6.9, giving three times better insulation. Yes, inflating the sleeping pad at the end of a long day is a pain, but 10 minutes meant much better sleep. The other downside is that they are noisy when you roll over, so there is a weird symphony from hikers camping nearby. As the night progresses, everyone starts to shift positions synchronously, another way that thru-hikers support one another.
Electronics
As I have shared earlier, I am a big advocate for carrying a satellite communication device. The Garmin InReach Mini worked well for Pleasure-Way and me. It was fun to look at the message log at the end of the trail and see that we had exchanged over 400 messages. Mostly, the messages were short affirmations that all was ok. There were some cases where she shared weather and fire hazards. Primarily, this allows thru-hikers to take charge of getting rescued. I also took out rescue insurance from the American Alpine Club. The other decision one needs to make is what power source to use. I decided to use power packs because they are small and durable. I kept my phone in airplane mode all the time and reduced the power usage of the screen. I was able to keep my phone, and the Garmin charged for seven days on a 10K mAh pack, but it was very tight. Others bring solar panels and attach them to the outside of their packs during the day. They are certainly getting lighter and more durable, so worth checking out for long sections.
Water and Cooking
I used the Sawyer Squeeze water filter, and it worked great. I needed a better water bag to get unfiltered water since the Sawyer bags are known to fail. The CNOC VECTO was the most popular on the trail, but I couldn’t find one given their popularity. I would guess that I filtered close to 1000 liters of water on my trip and only replaced my filter three times with no failures. The other big question is whether or not to bring a stove. I estimate that a fourth of the thru-hikers were cold-cooking. You add cold water to dehydrated food an hour or so before eating instead of adding boiling water. It sounds disgusting to hit camp, tired and hungry, and chow down on cold biscuits and gravy. And what about my proper second-breakfast of gourmet oatmeal and coffee saturated with freeze-dried heavy cream. All in, my stove, mug, and fuel weighed 8 ounces. I will likely keep this as a creature comfort.
Clothing
Many of my errors came in the clothing category. Looking back at my original list, I ended up cutting about half of my clothing. You don’t need more than one of anything, except socks and underwear. I also got lighter versions of everything as I went along. The most critical piece of clothing is socks, and I am a huge fan of the Injini toe socks. I used the no-show lightweight and midweight socks, depending on the temperature. I HAD ONE BLISTER IN 2653 MILES. That is freaking amazing. The toe socks removed heat better and isolated my toes eliminating blisters between toes. I also rinsed my socks once or twice a day and dried them on my backpack as I hiked. Other favorite items include my Columbia sun shirt, REI Sahara pants, Arc’teryx Cerium SL Down Jacket, and Dirty Girl Gaters. The bottom line is to get good stuff that works and only bring one; that is enough.
Hiking Shoes
Last but certainly not least is the shoes that will support and protect your feet during the 5.3 million steps needed to cover the distance. Selecting shoes is a vital gear decision because most hiker injuries are feet and ankle-related. It is also the most expensive piece of gear because you will need five pairs to replace the shoes every 400 to 500 miles, as recommended. I was fighting pain in my left foot metatarsal joint during the four months before I even started on the trail. I could have been one of the first hikers to flame out had this not gone away. I went with the Hoka One Stinson shoes because they are the most cushioned shoe out there. I got a lot of comments about the shoes because they are noticeably wide and cushioned. They are not very durable, so I went through six pairs and one grand to keep my little piggies happy.
To hike the Pacific Crest Trail in one season has always been a difficult proposition for all but the speediest of hikers. In the south, one must cross the desert sections before it is too hot, navigate the Sierra after the snow clears sufficiently from the high passes, and complete the North Cascades before the snow starts. Those historical barriers are trivial compared to the unprecedented wildfires that have engulfed the western US. Two days ago, the PCT was closed on all national forests in California, ending the journey for all southbound thru-hikers and section hikers.
Fire Incidents in California follow the PCT route through most of the state. (source: Information Incident System, Aug 2, 2021, https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/)
This year, I thread the needle by starting at the end of March and hiking some of the northern California sections while the Sierra snow melted. I also covered 22.5 miles per day versus my plan of 17, thereby reducing my hiking time by almost 40 days. These decisions certainly improved my chances of hiking the entire trail. I started facing the effect of fires at Mt. Shasta, and they continued for the next 1,150 miles in Oregon and Washington. The smoke reduced my views and made me nervous, but I did not need to leave the trail. I was lucky. Even before the total closure, north-bound hikers behind me dodged fires in Northern California and had to skip hundreds of miles of the beautiful forests that I hiked only a month earlier. I fear that the 2022 PCT hikers will face hundreds of miles of devastated forests or, more likely, face trail closures in much of California.
My most challenging day on the PCT was a 30-mile hike through the 2020 North Complex fire during the heatwave in late June. The overwhelming sense of loss, combined with searing heat from above and reflected heat from the glassified soil, took everything out of me. The fire killed 16 people, including a 16-year-old boy, and injured more than 100. The complex burned an estimated 318,935 acres.
What are the experts saying about wildfires?
In August, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) published its 4,000-page Working Group I Sixth Assessment Report on the state of Climate Change worldwide. The IPCC is sponsored by the United Nations and World Meteorological Organization. Chapter 11 of the report discusses “Weather and Climate Extreme Events in a Changing Climate.” What the research and climate models are showing, and what we are all experiencing, is the increased frequency and severity of these climate events. For example, only twice in recorded history have wildfires started on the western side of the Sierra and burned through the Sierra to the eastern side. They are both happening right now. The Dixie and Caldor fires alone have already burned more than 1M acres, and South Lake Tahoe may not survive. The toxic smoke from these mega-fires and many more are causing hazardous air quality eastward for up to 1000 miles.
"It is an established fact that human-induced greenhouse gas emissions have led to an increased frequency and/or intensity of some weather and climate extremes since pre-industrial time, in particular for temperature extremes." (pg 2776, line 17-19)
Compound events, where multiple extreme events of either different or similar types occur simultaneously and/or in succession, may be more probable or severe in the future. These compound events can often impact ecosystems and societies more strongly than when such events occur in isolation. For example, a drought along with extreme heat will increase the risk of wildfires and agriculture damages or losses. As individual extreme events become more severe as a result of climate change, the combined occurrence of these events will create unprecedented compound events. This could exacerbate the intensity and associated impacts of these extreme events." (pg 2889, line 32-38)
IPCC Working Group I Sixth Assessment Report
When you are hiking, you often only see smoke. How do we protect ourselves? Photo by Mike Lewelling, National Park Service, featured on the Pacific Crest Trail Association website.
What can thru-hikers do?
The first thing is that we need to protect ourselves while hiking on the trail. The Pacific Crest Trail Association (PCTA) has published a page on this very topic, How to react to wildfires. I, for one, was not aware of some of the measures hikers need to take in the presence of smoke. Thru-hikers frequently don’t have mobile connectivity to monitor websites tracking wildfires, and the fires change direction and intensity rapidly. Fortunately, Pleasure-Way was monitoring wildfires and weather and sending me information on my Garmin satellite device. I will write the PCTA and Garmin to see how hikers could be warned more effectively through their satellite devices. Many hikers carry these devices, and it is common to share information and even let hikers who do not have them use them for communication.
This picture of a PCT thru-hiker running for their life after the Chimney Fire took over a campground makes the risk we face very real. Photo by Elliot Schwimmer featured on the Pacific Crest Trail Association website.
All is not lost. The IPCC report outlines how a worldwide effort to cut carbon emissions rapidly to eliminate them by 2050 could cap preindustrial global warming at 1.5 degrees Celsius. Even that best-case scenario means we will experience one new extreme climate event after another. Doing nothing and allowing the global temperature to rise 3 or 4 degrees Celsius will further increase the frequency and magnitude of compound events and lead to the death of countless living organisms, including humans. There is no better example of putting the saying, “think globally, act locally,” into action.
The title of this blog may bring back memories of watching Sesame Street as a kid or with your kids. But, I go with what comes to me on the trail, and this was it. Come to think of it, I may have turned into Cookie Monster – more on that later. W is for “Wet” certainly works since I’ve spent three of the last four days hiking in the rain. W is for “Wild” is also an accurate description of the landscape since hiking north from Chinook to Stevens Pass. And as you will see from the photos, W is for “Wow” is undisputable from my photos, even with marginal weather. But what got me thinking of W is looking at the elevation map I would face in northern Washington.
Washington started with a big climb coming out of the Columbia River but then settled into rolling forests with moderate elevation changes similar to Oregon. That changed beginning at Chinook Pass, and as I prepared for the last 325 miles, I saw a repeating pattern of W’s, not seen since the Sierra.
This graph shows the trail’s elevation change in the last segment and represents what is coming over the next 189 miles. W is for “Watts” as in the amount of energy and focus I will need to complete this amazing trail..
The rain over the last three days has pointed out limitations in my gear. I have previously dealt with thunderstorms or showers that last maybe three hours. Afterward, it is easy to dry out the tent. Or, if the rain is continuous and I am at a base camp, we leave the tent up, which works fine. But facing steady rain and compressing a wet tent into my backpack showed a weakness. I love the tent; it has withstood 60 mile/hour winds and protected me at wind chill temperatures below zero. But the lightweight nylon fabric eventually does absorb water if compressed over a long period. Thru-hikers are always on the move so our tents must packed everyday wet or dry. After the hike, I will be writing a blog titled “Gear Heads” to share my observations about my gear and other options.
The Kendall Katwalk, a 3,400-foot climb out of Snoqualmie Pass, was wrapped in the building rainstorm. This trail is not for people with a fear of heights.My rain-soaked tent, after three days, was losing its water resistance.
I’ve often talked about the significance of Trail Magic. It has ranged from a homemade chocolate chip cookie given by a day hiker to full meals. But no matter what the offering, it has a tremendous positive impact on thru-hikers. It is a beautiful sign that other people appreciate and value what we’re doing and will go out of their way to acknowledge it. Here at Stevens Pass, I was fortunate to be the recipient of Trail Magic from my sister and her husband as well as Pleasure-Way’s sister and husband. I certainly have made a dent in my caloric deficit with the wonderful meals and desserts they’ve provided. Tonight I had a tender T-bone steak, corn chowder, salad, and a huge piece of fresh peach pie. Tomorrow night is a surprise, but I can’t wait for round two.
I was offered a homemade chocolate chip cookie from a group of women day hiking. They asked great questions and I guess I passed the test – yummy. My second round of homemade cookies came from Velvet, espresso chocolate chip – yummy + buzz.The family showed up in force at Stevens Pass to offer encouragement and fantastic food. From left to right are Duffy, Bud, Mary, Sophie, Dan, Ribs, Pleasure-Way, and Velvet.This is hands down the best steak I have had since starting the hike. It disappeared and will probably show up in my upcoming food dreams.Velvet made a fresh peach pie with homemade crust. She got the portion size just right.
I am setting forth on my final two segments on the Pacific Crest Trail, with 189 miles left with a gross climbing of 54K feet. That is 50% more climbing per mile than the average. These are difficult segments and will test my physical and mental preparation from the last 108 days. I enter them with genuinely mixed emotions because I know this journey is coming to an end, and it has been the trip of a lifetime. I will likely not blog until I return from the Canadian border since there is limited mobile coverage. Safe travels, and may the trail provide.
A view looking back at the mountains and lakes just north of Snoqualmie Pass.I camped at Spectacle Lake the first night and got some rain breaks before the next rain storm. I turned the corner in a switchback to see this rainbow. In an instant, it was gone. Rainbows remind me of my Mom and she was sending her Trail Magic my direction.I spent my final night at Glacier Lake and woke up to a beautiful sunrise – welcome back sun!
I’m excited to share my experience hiking on my 100th day on the PCT. I chronicled my day to remember life on the trail. It represents both the simplicity and the practices I use to stay engaged and safe while deepening my awareness.
I hiked a relatively short day of 21.6 miles through the Goat Rocks Wilderness. I pushed hard 30-miles the day before to get to this section. At the end of my 100th day, I had completed 2,280 miles or 22.8 miles per day. I had some new insights as I look back at the twists and turns common on the trail.
First, I have refined and developed practices that I use throughout the day applied at various times. As I observed my approach, it became clear that I was using meditation practices to coax my mind and body into embracing the coming hiking day. I have noticed that I am becoming increasingly resistant, mentally and physically, to hiking at the start of the day. I think this is natural after an effort of this magnitude and certainly something other hikers have described. I’m glad that I developed some structure to support my intention and the joy I receive as my day progresses.
My second realization has to do with joy. I noticed throughout the day unexpected moments grab me at the deepest level. For example, I turned a corner on the trail to see the wind blowing through the grass and felt it caressing my hair. These moments of connectedness are hard to describe, but it felt like my hair and the grass and the wind were not separate but one continuous energetic expression. Or the clattering sound from a woodpecker or the high-pitched chirp of a pica. These unexpected moments occur frequently and come when I am grumbling or happy, present or checked out. But there they are, connecting me with everything that surrounds me. This is what brings me to nature, it is the feeling that I’m a part of it, not just watching it, or conquering it, or taking pictures of it – no, I’m a part of it at a cellular level. I wonder what it would take to experience these moments during what we describe as “normal” life. Do I need to trek endlessly day after day to be open for these unexpected moments of connectedness?
5:00 AM
My alarm went off at 5:00 a.m on my 100th day of hiking. As usual, it was a restless night of sleep. The rain had started in the middle of the night, but it was so warm that everything was dry again. My 30-mosquito escort had a sleepover outside the tent so they could greet me in the morning. As I prepared to pack out, I did a quick survey of my current condition. I hiked 30 miles the previous day in hot and humid conditions with a constant barrage from mosquitoes and biting flies. I felt dehydrated, as evidenced by some leg cramping – all the more reason to take it slow this morning and try to rehydrate. I have 1.5 liters of water which needs to last for the first 7.5 miles.
5:40 AM
I packed everything and was hiking by 5:40 AM. I put on my full rain gear, including long pants, for the first seven miles to get thru a swampy area. I had three bites on my ankles in the short time I needed to put my shoes on. I hiked at a gentle pace for the first hour to give my body a chance to wake up.
6:40 AM
After two miles, I had my first-breakfast, which was a cliff coffee bar. I’d been working to rehydrate myself but save water for the next 2 hours. I started a one-hour body scan meditation.
7:40 AM
I completed my body scan, and everything is felt good except pain in my right footpad. I checked in with 32 different locations on my body. I find this is an excellent start for the day because it gets me out of my head and connects me to all the parts of my body that will do the work today. I decided to keep walking for the next two hours to clear the buggy swamp section.
8:40 AM
I’d hiked seven miles and had started climbing. It began to rain as it has on several occasions over the last two days, but I didn’t think it would break through this stifling humidity. I completed my secondmeditation, a trail sensation meditation, where I focused my attention on any sensations I felt from the trail, including the trail surface and the brush that I touched along the way.
9:40 AM
I filled my water bottles at a small stream after hiking eight miles, with the first miles being a 1750 ft descent followed by a 1300 ft climb. The bugs significantly eased as I climbed the ridge, and I was looking forward to having a proper second-breakfast soon.
10:40 AM
After getting water, I started to feel more at ease with the climb ahead. I used a meditation approach that works well for me on climbs. That is to count my breaths from 1 to 10 and then start over. I focus on my steps between each breath which helps me set a sustainable pace. I started to feel in a groove and decided to keep going instead of stopping for second-breakfast. I grabbed a protein bar and continued to climb.
11:40 AM
I reached a pass where the PCT crosses into the Yakima Nation after 13 miles. I remembered this spot from my previous hike in the Goat Rocks and was thrilled to get here for second-breakfast. I heated water for my excellent high-calorie oatmeal concoction and my morning cup of coffee with great fanfare. With the heat and humidity, I had been hoping for rain. It drizzled at first, so I finish my breakfast and then the rain picked up, so I continued hiking after putting on shorts. As strange as it may seem, thru-hikers will put on shorts and their lightest gear in warm rain. Getting wet is inevitable if you hike in the rain for long stretches. This way you keep your warm clothing dry.
12:40 PM
I always get a big energy boost after second-breakfast. I finished climbing Cispus Pass, and the rain stopped. I met six hiking parties, out for the weekend, that wanted to talk about my journey. I spent time with each of them because I know how much I appreciated learning from previous PCT hikers. I am rarely seeing fellow north-bound PCT thru-hikers at this point but now meet about 10 south-bound hikers a day.
1:40 PM
I had reached the basin under Old Snowy Mountain. Usually, Old Snowy is one of the most picturesque sections on the PCT, but today the mountains were barely visible due to a smokey mist. I hiked this section two years ago with Scott, so coming back and feeling my first cool breeze in days made me smile. I did my one-hour metta meditation as I climbed up to 7,100 feet.
It is worth noting the tools thru-hikers use. Navigation and crowdsourcing information from other hikers is available on an app called Guthook. It allows hikers to see their location in real-time even when the phone is in airplane mode. It also allows hikers to comment on water sources, safety issues, and the best pizza joint in trail towns.
3:20 PM
I climbed the alternate PCT route to the top of the Knife’s Edge, a feared section of trail that follows a thin ridgeline with exposure on both sides. Before descending, I had first-lunch of refried beans and Fritos and called Pleasure-Way. The trail is tricky, and one hiker is believed to have died here but was never found.
Photo of the Knife’s Edge trail from the top of Owd Snowy two years agoLooking back up the Knife’s Edge after descending on my 100th day
5:20 PM
I made my way to my campsite after descending 1500 feet from the summit. I selected this site because it was next to a stream and on clear days, has a great view of Mt. Rainier. It was great getting into camp this early since most days I arrive after 7 PM.
5:40 PM
The tent was up, and I used the cold and clear water to hydrate, filter water, and clean up. When possible, I take a sponge bath each night away from the water source. Most nights, I am “dry camping,” which means there is no water source nearby. I always need to ration my water when dry camping, so having it readily available is a treat.
6:40 PM
I cooked dinner outside my tent, the first time in several weeks. The wind kept the bugs at bay, and I enjoyed the solitude. On the menu was my favorite, spaghetti followed by ramen.
7:40 PM
I worked on my 100th-day blog post. I was pleased to have made notes during the day, and reviewing them provided me some valuable insights.
PCT hikers generally assume that the Sierra Nevada section ends at Sonora Pass, where they are relieved to stop carrying their food in a bear canister. Geologists know the Sierra continues another 270 miles to the North Fork of the Feather River, where I ended hiking today. The name “melting pot” came to me early as I saw the ever-changing combinations of high desert, deep forests, polished granite, basalt columns, and volcanic cones. The name made even more sense as I started to adjust to the heatwave that swept across the west.
I have now closed the gap between California’s southern sections with the start of the Cascades. I am excited to be at mile 1501 and ready for my trek northward from Castle Crags. Heat is my new reality, and once again, I need to re-think my gear and approach. I hiked three days with temperatures bordering on 100 degrees, and I immediately noticed the added energy required to cool my body when I am already operating in a caloric deficit. My plan is to lighten my gear and carry more food, but one thing I can count on is continuously making adjustments.
The Desolation Wilderness is a small but spectacular section near South Lake Tahoe starting with Aloha Lake.Climbing up Dick’s pass provides a great view of Suzie Lake in the foreground and Aloha Lake in the distance. The polished granite reminded me of Yosemite, but the volcanic peaks look much more like the Cascades.I like to start hiking around 6 AM and then enjoy a proper second-breakfast of gourmet oatmeal and coffee. This friendly face watched me as I sat above Lake Tahoe. I stopped dead in my tracks when I spotted this “Tahoe Bouquet.” It was as if someone had arranged the Mules Ears (yellow), Indian Paintbrush (red), and Nuttall’s Larkspur (purple).After leaving Donner Pass, I had my first sustained thunderstorm. Sierra Buttes flashed ominously in the distance.Hiking Sierra Buttes was a 3500-foot climb from Sierra City, featured in Cheryl Strayed’s book and movie. I got started at 6 AM, and the views looked more like Oregon and Washington.The hottest and most difficult section covered over 20 miles of hiking through the North Complex fires of 2020. The 100-degree heat radiated back from the barren landscape. This was my most challenging day yet on the trail.One hiker described the Canyon Valley Spring as the “cold nectar of the gods.” These springs tap into artesian sources where hikers can reach the water before it disappears into the dry ground.
100 Degree Hiking
Heat comes in waves
Straining my body's cooling
Each breeze is pure joy
Ribs
Freezing wind and hail
will surely tear me apart.
Dawn comes, I'm still here.
Rib's tent
Several days into my six-day, 117-mile hike from Mammoth Lakes to Sonora Pass, a day hiker gave me the title for this post. As I shared my misadventure, he said, “Oh, I guess you haven’t heard about Juneuary in Yosemite.” My blank face was a sufficient answer. By the way, Urban Dictionary defines Juneuary as a Washington thing.
Storm clouds hung over Ansel Adams Wilderness all afternoon before the storm broke loose.
During my first day after leaving Mammoth Lakes, I was hit by an unexpected storm that dropped the overnight temperatures into the teens with wind gusts to 40 mph and snow. It was the coldest night of the entire PCT. Fortunately, my tent held up and I stayed warm in my sleeping bag; it is the best.
Everything was frozen in the morning, including small streams.
I decided to get moving early to warm up – I had two passes to climb before getting to Tuolumne Meadows. The temperature was still below freezing but it had warmed by the time I summited Donohue Pass, the last pass over 11K feet. A ranger reminded me that I had entered Yosemite and, honestly, I thought it an odd comment. We have crossed through dozens of national forests, parks, and wilderness areas by this time. Looking back, he was also giving me a heads up that Yosemite is different.
I reached Thousand Island Lake before starting my first passSnow on the mountains surrounding Donohue Pass
Tuolumne Meadows is the gateway to Yosemite missed by 99% of park visitors. It starts with a series of beautiful meadows and the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River as it meanders through the smoothly polished granite peaks. From there, I descended into thick forests and met my new nemesis, the mosquito. The snowpack was deeper in Yosemite than the southern Sierra and had just melted. The one thing every backpacker knows is that you stay home in June when the masses rise from the still water looking for blood. Now I know that thru-hiker DNA dominates the mosquito gene pool. Those tiny beings can drive all of us sophisticated humans insane.
Your purpose is clear
to sip one drop of my blood
anger is no match
Ribs (trying to chill out)
Hiking by the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River The deep forests of Yosemite were such a contrast to previous barren landscapes.Dorothy Lake provided a breeze to keep the bugs at bay during an extended lunch stop.
The third challenge in Yosemite started on day 3, the quantity and pitch of the climbs. The peaceful meadows turned into repeated 1000 foot climbs and descents over “trails” that looked more like scenes from Mordor.
Days three through five included an unrelating series of named and unnamed passes over this rugged terrain.This is one of the more organized trail sections with others looking like stream beds. About 20% of the hikers I talked with developed ankle or knee issues from the constant pounding.
The final day was amazing as I climbed out of Yosemite into the Edison and Emigrant Wilderness areas. The landscape completely changed to wide open climbs and vistas stradling Mt. Leavitt. I was ecstatic to meet Pleasure-Way for a much-needed zero, and we were lucky to give Magic Marker and Steps a lift into town.
The climb was gradual switchbacks but had five different summits to view every side of this new landscape.The wind provided a constant light show reflected from the lakeMagic Marker and Steps getting recharged on the way into town
Thru-hiking like life brings toil and uncertainty to ask who am I? Ribs
I am writing from the comfort of a motel in Mammoth Lakes. I came off the trail today after the most physically challenging week so far with a profound appreciation of the scenic beauty and the responsibility we assume when thru-hiking. In seven days I covered 123 miles with 32K elevation gain from eight passes averaging over 11K feet.
I was joined by my nephew, Peter, an experienced Sierra climber and back country skier. His presence boosted my confidence to navigate the three highest passes with snow.
Kearsarge Pass, at nearly 12K feet, is required just to get back to the PCTGlen Pass, our second 12K pass of the first day, required several steep snow field traverses – not a big deal for Peter but I fell several timesLooking back at Glen Pass from the Rae Lakes
I could have written a nice post titled “Big Day – The Sequel” after two major climbs on the first day. But we were just getting started. Every day we climbed as quickly as possible to summit the next pass before the snow got too soft or possible afternoon thunderstorms materialized. We then dropped 3K feet to the valley floor to camp before starting the sequence again. It makes me tired just listing our Big Week itinerary.
Day 1: Kearsarge 12K and Glen 12K
Day 2: Pinchot 12K
Day 3: Mather 12K
Day 4: Muir 12K
Day 5: Selden 11K
Day 6: Silver 11K
Day 7: Mammoth 10K
We met him at first light of day 2 sharing the river valley, the first of many deer over the weekPinchot Pass featured the barren moonscape of the southern SierraLooking back from Mather to Pinchot Pass showed our day 3 work
Peter and I were most concerned about Muir Pass because of the snow depth. It was the most scenic section of the PCT so far. The intense azure blue of the lakes and sky radiated off the snow and ice.
Peter leads the way up Muir PassThe John Muir shelter, built in 1930, saves lives when storms close in on this highly exposed landscapeWanda Lake, north of Muir Pass, defines radianceThe ice flow moved with the wind, I had to peel my eyes away lest I would still be sitting there
The descent from Muir took us into the magical Evolution Valley. I have tried to hike this section for years but permits and fires have intervened. It is the transition from the barren Sierra peaks to the lush forests that stretch from valley floor to alpine lakes.
We shared our campsite view with the residents of Evolution Valley
The constant pounding of the descents took a toll on Peter. He dealt with a daily barrage of blisters but then he re-activated knee issues that quickly escalated. He decided to hike 16 miles out rather than continue 45 more miles and risk an evacuation. It was a hard decision but demonstrated the most important responsibility we have in remote wilderness situations – know your limits at every moment. Later we concluded the issue was likely using climbing approach shoes. Every thru-hiker tweaks their gear, food, and body care over weeks and months – Peter had five days.
Foot care at its best
I continued north to finish the last three passes and 45 miles. I had hiked this section with Jenessa in 2017 so it was fun to experience the trail again and remember the trip that inspired me to hike the PCT.
Silver Pass was number seven and a crazy day of climbingAfter a full meal, I decided to take on a mammoth mud pie. You’re damn right I finished it with an audience at the next table.
