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PCT Reflections

The Impassable PCT

To hike the Pacific Crest Trail in one season has always been a difficult proposition for all but the speediest of hikers. In the south, one must cross the desert sections before it is too hot, navigate the Sierra after the snow clears sufficiently from the high passes, and complete the North Cascades before the snow starts. Those historical barriers are trivial compared to the unprecedented wildfires that have engulfed the western US. Two days ago, the PCT was closed on all national forests in California, ending the journey for all southbound thru-hikers and section hikers.

Fire Incidents in California follow the PCT route through most of the state.
(source: Information Incident System, Aug 2, 2021, https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/)

This year, I thread the needle by starting at the end of March and hiking some of the northern California sections while the Sierra snow melted. I also covered 22.5 miles per day versus my plan of 17, thereby reducing my hiking time by almost 40 days. These decisions certainly improved my chances of hiking the entire trail. I started facing the effect of fires at Mt. Shasta, and they continued for the next 1,150 miles in Oregon and Washington. The smoke reduced my views and made me nervous, but I did not need to leave the trail. I was lucky. Even before the total closure, north-bound hikers behind me dodged fires in Northern California and had to skip hundreds of miles of the beautiful forests that I hiked only a month earlier. I fear that the 2022 PCT hikers will face hundreds of miles of devastated forests or, more likely, face trail closures in much of California.

My most challenging day on the PCT was a 30-mile hike through the 2020 North Complex fire during the heatwave in late June. The overwhelming sense of loss, combined with searing heat from above and reflected heat from the glassified soil, took everything out of me.
The fire killed 16 people, including a 16-year-old boy, and injured more than 100. The complex burned an estimated 318,935 acres.

What are the experts saying about wildfires?

In August, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) published its 4,000-page Working Group I Sixth Assessment Report on the state of Climate Change worldwide. The IPCC is sponsored by the United Nations and World Meteorological Organization. Chapter 11 of the report discusses “Weather and Climate Extreme Events in a Changing Climate.” What the research and climate models are showing, and what we are all experiencing, is the increased frequency and severity of these climate events. For example, only twice in recorded history have wildfires started on the western side of the Sierra and burned through the Sierra to the eastern side. They are both happening right now. The Dixie and Caldor fires alone have already burned more than 1M acres, and South Lake Tahoe may not survive. The toxic smoke from these mega-fires and many more are causing hazardous air quality eastward for up to 1000 miles.

"It is an established fact that human-induced greenhouse gas emissions have led to an increased frequency and/or intensity of some weather and climate extremes since pre-industrial time, in particular for temperature extremes." (pg 2776, line 17-19)

Compound events, where multiple extreme events of either different or similar types occur simultaneously and/or in succession, may be more probable or severe in the future. These compound events can often impact ecosystems and societies more strongly than when such events occur in isolation. For example, a drought along with extreme heat will increase the risk of wildfires and agriculture damages or losses. As individual extreme events become more severe as a result of climate change, the combined occurrence of these events will create unprecedented compound events. This could exacerbate the intensity and associated impacts of these extreme events." (pg 2889, line 32-38)
     IPCC Working Group I Sixth Assessment Report
When you are hiking, you often only see smoke. How do we protect ourselves?
Photo by Mike Lewelling, National Park Service, featured on the Pacific Crest Trail Association website.

What can thru-hikers do?

The first thing is that we need to protect ourselves while hiking on the trail. The Pacific Crest Trail Association (PCTA) has published a page on this very topic, How to react to wildfires. I, for one, was not aware of some of the measures hikers need to take in the presence of smoke. Thru-hikers frequently don’t have mobile connectivity to monitor websites tracking wildfires, and the fires change direction and intensity rapidly. Fortunately, Pleasure-Way was monitoring wildfires and weather and sending me information on my Garmin satellite device. I will write the PCTA and Garmin to see how hikers could be warned more effectively through their satellite devices. Many hikers carry these devices, and it is common to share information and even let hikers who do not have them use them for communication.

This picture of a PCT thru-hiker running for their life after the Chimney Fire took over a campground makes the risk we face very real.
Photo by Elliot Schwimmer featured on the Pacific Crest Trail Association website.

All is not lost. The IPCC report outlines how a worldwide effort to cut carbon emissions rapidly to eliminate them by 2050 could cap preindustrial global warming at 1.5 degrees Celsius. Even that best-case scenario means we will experience one new extreme climate event after another. Doing nothing and allowing the global temperature to rise 3 or 4 degrees Celsius will further increase the frequency and magnitude of compound events and lead to the death of countless living organisms, including humans. There is no better example of putting the saying, “think globally, act locally,” into action.

6 replies on “The Impassable PCT”

Rich, thank you for bringing a real life perspective to the “abstract” effect of overheating the earth. The devastation is real, and your witness of it brings it home to us. I am grateful you traveled the length of PCT safely.

Thank you, Ruth. I realized when first hiking through significant burned sections in Southern California that I would purposely look away or distract myself. I am sure I did the same thing when driving. After a week or so I started to look directly at the burns through an empathetic heart which was too much to bear sometimes. In those cases, I would look for the new growth, if there was any, and give encouragement like, “you got this.” It won’t be in my lifetime but nature finds a way if we give it half a chance.

Thanks for your posts. My husband started out to do the PCT in 2019 but got stopped at the Sierras due to the snow and then got sidelined with other family obligations. He’s been meaning to pick up where he left off and has been following your adventures with great interest. The fires are a huge concern and sad to see our northwest land being devoured. Glad you accomplished such a huge hike. Congratulations. So impressive.

Thank you, Lonnie, I now recall discussing outside adventures with your husband. I don’t want to be a downer and I am sure the trail will be there. I do think the old-school advice that I got (i.e., start in late April, hike the trail end-to-end, etc.) decreases the chances to get through in one year. I would have gotten a lot out of it section hiking for 3 to 8 weeks at a time like my son did, but that makes it harder in some ways as well. I look forward to hearing about his adventure. Take care.

This is such a vast endevour you’re on. I remember about a decade ago I decided to join Team in Training (Luekemia Foundation) to prepare for the Lavaman Triathlon in Hawaii. That was months of training but a single day event. You are hiking 20+ miles for months. What a lifetime experience! I’d love to know your insights about how you’ve changed when you’re done. I’m going to subscribe to your blog.

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