Border to border
takes 5.3 million steps
with beginner's mind.
I am watching the cold rain drip off my office window thinking about one year ago – making lists, buying food and gear, all the while wondering what the hell I had got myself into. Even after completing the hike, that is an unanswerable question because everything changes. What I do know is that I prepared as well as I could and then let go of my preconceived notion of what was going to actually happen. I am dedicating this post to all the hikers going through their own preparation while the deeper questions continue to swirl.
I entered my name in the hiker’s journal at the Mexican Border with little idea what was to come.
I have written about my gear and food. This post is about logistics. Self-supported hikers do not have anyone meeting them during the hike. They hitchhike to resupply locations and either pick up boxes mailed to that location or buy food locally. If you are a self-supported thru-hiker, I recommend using this excellent Trail Resupply Guide from Halfway Anywhere. I used the gear reviews posted by Halfway Anywhere extensively in my preparation. His resupply guide paints a clear picture of what self-supported thru-hikers would have done differently. He covers resupply strategy/frequency, mailing boxes versus purchasing food, resupply locations, food selection, and much more. My post focuses on supported hikers and those who support them, but all hikers might find missing pieces to their logistics puzzle.
I was looking way too clean on my first hiking day on March 28 last year from Campo to Lake Marina, 20 miles away. My journey was one of a supported hiker.
I was so fortunate that Pleasure-Way supported me during my 118 hiking days that spanned 151 calendar days. Her support allowed me to adjust as I learned what gear and food I actually needed. Her moral support was even more essential, as was my ability to recover more quickly during my zeros because I didn’t need to hitchhike into town and run errands all day.
I became pretty efficient at the art of resupply, aided by multiple checklists and a stockpile of food and gear. (taken at an RV park in Susanville, CA)
Even though my hiking logistics puzzle was simpler, Pleasure-Way and I had to work on two puzzles simultaneously because the supporting party navigates a complex rural landscape. We both needed to meet at a known place at a specific time. How many of you have had trouble finding your party after getting separated while shopping or at an event. Imagine an event the size of the western US with limited cell service in remote locations and questionable roads. For more information about how to pull all of this off, take a look at my post, Pleasure-Way: an interview with 2021’s best Trail Angel. Constantly adjusting our plan for when and how to meet was more complicated than my resupply puzzle.
Below, I have copied another spreadsheet to aid your planning, Rib’s Border to Border Logistics. This list shows every hiking day and our meeting locations for zeros and resupplies. We became very good at resupply points that did not cost any miles; in fact, they lengthened my days. If I knew I was coming into a resupply, I could push my mileage that day. Nearly half of my 30+ mile days ended in a meet-up with Pleasure-Way. As you use this for your planning, remember that we jumped to northern California twice to avoid snow in the Sierra and meet family members. We were fortunate that we did not have to jump to avoid new fires, but this is now the new reality for many hikers.
As you continue to put your logistics puzzles together, occasionally take a break and walk the hike in your mind’s eye. The beautiful and solitary moments are endless and await your trip of a lifetime. Pleasure-Way and I look forward to seeing you at the Frog Lake trailhead near Mt. Hood on July 22-25.
I was obsessed with the blooming yucca plants from the very first day – some looked like small trees, others like swaying bamboo. Dropping into the high chaparral from rainy Oregon was stunning.
The Mojave desert was dramatic with constant reminders of the fragility of life.
Southern California slowly gave way into the foothills of the Sierra. Darth Vader was with me as I approached Bird Spring Pass.The southern portion of the Sierra combines desolate mountain basins followed by lush valleys.Crossing Forester Pass at over 13K feet is always a big day, but even more so with many miles of snow to cross.
If Shangri-La exists, Evolution Valley tops my list of nominees.
The wind was whipping and I wore all my warm clothes climbing Sonora Pass.
I arrived at a much-needed meet-up with Pleasure-Way at the Carter Meadow trailhead in northern California.
The Three Sister’s Wilderness in Oregon offers fast hiking and expansive views.
Staying focused on the trail is all-important on the Knife’s edge in the Goat Rocks Wilderness in Washington.The Northern Cascades feel like the end of this hike and the start of the amazing Canadian Rockies.
Hello trail family – I did not forget you. I have been making my site easier to navigate, so check out the blog categories from the menu and the blog word cloud on the main page to visit the pages that speak to those topics. I am committed to keeping this site alive as some prepare for your thru-hiking adventures next year.
I promised to write a blog about gear in early August while on the trail. Here we are in October, and it is still on my to-do list moving week-for-week. This delay is not just my penchant for procrastination; I discovered that I have a bonified insecurity on the topic of gear. My hangup started before Campo and grew as the pros and bros made conversation about our gear. “What is your base weight? Wow, 15 pounds – good luck with that,” followed by an eye roll. The closest thing I can remember is pulling up to a stoplight back in ’73 next to one of the cool kids in high school. He was driving a candy apple red Pontiac GTO coupe with a beefy 455 HO V8 long-stroke engine. I was in my faded turquoise Toyota Corolla 4-door, 4-cylinder, 75 horsepower looking the other way. Those moments aside, my little car, named Nidwin, did do the job just fine.
Don’t get me wrong; I love gear. It is hard to fathom hiking this trail with the 60+ pound packs full of equipment that didn’t keep hikers as warm, dry, or safe as what is readily available today. After my four-month counseling session, courtesy of the trail, I am ready to rise above my insecurities and share my mistakes so you can avoid mine and make your own. Below is an excel sheet that you can download with my gear list.
Kiki the COVID kitty helping get my gear sorted before leaving for Campo.
Base Weight
Comparing the weight of gear is equivalent to horsepower back in the muscle-car days. And, just like horsepower, there is a lot of gamesmanship (or confusion) on what it means. I found two helpful measures. The first came from an excellent blog on gear by Halfway Anywhere. Halfway provides a valuable summary of top gear, and I used his site extensively. He defines the Big Four as a tent, backpack, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad. Invest in these four items because they are half of your base weight and critical for safety. The second measure, Base Weight, is everything in your pack except consumables (food, water, fuel, toilet paper, etc.). My base weight ranged from 13 to 17.5 pounds, depending on my kit (see below).
There are two problems with obsessing about Base Weight. Andrew Skurka’s blog describes his journey to discovering “stupid light.” Hikers that tout Base Weights as low as 7 pounds are unlikely to be self-sufficient when conditions turn for the worse. The reality of stupid light is that other hikers or rescuers are more likely to need to bail them out. The second issue to consider is your total pack weight when starting a hiking segment. For example, for a six-day section, my total pack weight doubled from 15 to 30 pounds. I needed 2 pounds of food per day, one fuel canister, and I typically carried 2 liters of water. I mention this because many thru-hikers use ultralight packs with little support. They work great at 20 pounds or less but became painful above that. The heaviest carries came in the Sierra with a Pack Weight above 35 pounds for seven days of food, bear canister, warm clothing, ice axe, and microspikes.
Customized Kits
My alternative to going stupid light was customizing my kits for different hiking segments. Changing kits gave me a significant advantage, only possible with Pleasure-Way’s support. In the spreadsheet, you will see five kits across the top: warm segments (1-3 nights, or 4-7 nights), cold segments (1-3 nights, or 4-7 nights), and a snow segment. The table shows how I changed my gear depending on what was coming up next. I recognize other thru-hikers do not have this luxury, but they do ship gear to and from resupply points along the trail for big transitions, like the Sierra.
Setting out on the first seven-day Sierra section. We weighed in above 35 pounds and the smiles are not authentic.Happier days with my EXOS 38 light pack and kit for a 1-3 day warm hiking section.
The Big Four
TENT: I used the Big Agnes Ultralight Tiger Wall UL2 tent. I have been a fan of Big Agnes for a decade because their gear is light and durable with excellent customer support. The packed weight of the tent is 2.5 pounds, including the footprint. This tent faced wind gusts well over 60 mph on this trip and temperatures in the teens. It also has plenty of room to hang out, store gear, and cook meals. The downside is that nylon absorbs water over multiple days when compressed into the pack. Dyneema Composite Fabrics (DCF, a.k.a Cuban Fiber) is the most promising nylon replacement material. The price has dropped from ridiculous to a 2X premium. DCF was developed and perfected for high-performance sailing. DCF tents are entirely waterproof, lightweight, and the fabric doesn’t absorb water. There have been some drawbacks, such as ventilation, but tent designers are innovating rapidly, and new products are coming out each year. Many models use hiking poles instead of tent poles to further reduce weight and bulk. Here is a site with some of the most popular models. Plan on a six-month lead time to get an order filled. I would have cut one pound off my base weight with one of these 2-person models.
My lovely campsite at Rock Creek in Washington. One advantage of the nylon tents is the ability to sleep without the rainfly, keeping things cool, and staying connected with nature. I loved this place so much I wrote a Haiku.
Rock Creek
Rock Creek reflected
with leaves gently swirling
to water over rocks.
Ribs
BACKPACK(S):I had two packs available to use in my different kits; the Osprey EXOS 58 and EXOS 38. I am super happy with this choice. They are not the lightest packs, but they have a suspension system that carries more weight than advertised and provides much-needed ventilation on hot days. Using DCF packs without suspension, Hikers looked like they just got out of the shower, covered in sweat from their packs. Whatever you get, make sure you get fit in person from someone who knows what they are doing and then load it up to 30 pounds. I spent 13 days on the trail the summer before the PCT, ensuring my pack was right for me. This piece of gear becomes part of you. I remember talking to thru-hikers over the years, and I noticed that they never take their packs off. I was the same way. I took it off maybe four times during a 12-hour day.
SLEEPING BAG(S):I started with the Western Mountaineering VersaLite sleeping bag and immediately fell in love. This bag is only 2 pounds and lives up to its 10-degree rating. I also love the near full zip feature so that you can turn it into a quilt for warmer days. When the heat started to go through the roof, it was just too much. I was lucky to find the Western Mountaineering SummerLite bag at a fabulous store in Redding, Hermit’s Hut. The SummerLite, a 32-degree bag, worked from northern California to the border but would not have been warm enough in the desert during springtime or the Sierra. When you look at these bags, you may get sticker shock, but they are worth every penny and will last for decades with proper care. Western Mountaineering only sells through small retailers. I got both of my bags from the Hermit’s Hut but order yours well before peak season.
Modeling my Western Mountaineering VersaLite sleeping bag and Arc’teryx Cerium SL Down Jacket on the top of Mt. Whitney. It was in the low teens and I needed all of this and a cup of coffee to warm up.
SLEEPING PAD(S): I also had two options for sleeping pads. I used the Nemo Switchback foam pad in the desert to avoid getting a puncture from the pokey things on the ground. The advantage of a foam pad is that it easily attaches to the outside of the pack, allowing me to use my smaller pack. You don’t need to inflate them, and they also make for a relaxing afternoon nap. The disadvantage is the thermal R-Value is 2.0, which means more heat loss to your biggest heat sink, the ground. They also are bare-bones (no pun intended) when it comes to comfort. For colder sections and comfort, I used the Thermarest NemoAir XTherm inflatable pad. The R-Value is 6.9, giving three times better insulation. Yes, inflating the sleeping pad at the end of a long day is a pain, but 10 minutes meant much better sleep. The other downside is that they are noisy when you roll over, so there is a weird symphony from hikers camping nearby. As the night progresses, everyone starts to shift positions synchronously, another way that thru-hikers support one another.
Electronics
As I have shared earlier, I am a big advocate for carrying a satellite communication device. The Garmin InReach Mini worked well for Pleasure-Way and me. It was fun to look at the message log at the end of the trail and see that we had exchanged over 400 messages. Mostly, the messages were short affirmations that all was ok. There were some cases where she shared weather and fire hazards. Primarily, this allows thru-hikers to take charge of getting rescued. I also took out rescue insurance from the American Alpine Club. The other decision one needs to make is what power source to use. I decided to use power packs because they are small and durable. I kept my phone in airplane mode all the time and reduced the power usage of the screen. I was able to keep my phone, and the Garmin charged for seven days on a 10K mAh pack, but it was very tight. Others bring solar panels and attach them to the outside of their packs during the day. They are certainly getting lighter and more durable, so worth checking out for long sections.
Water and Cooking
I used the Sawyer Squeeze water filter, and it worked great. I needed a better water bag to get unfiltered water since the Sawyer bags are known to fail. The CNOC VECTO was the most popular on the trail, but I couldn’t find one given their popularity. I would guess that I filtered close to 1000 liters of water on my trip and only replaced my filter three times with no failures. The other big question is whether or not to bring a stove. I estimate that a fourth of the thru-hikers were cold-cooking. You add cold water to dehydrated food an hour or so before eating instead of adding boiling water. It sounds disgusting to hit camp, tired and hungry, and chow down on cold biscuits and gravy. And what about my proper second-breakfast of gourmet oatmeal and coffee saturated with freeze-dried heavy cream. All in, my stove, mug, and fuel weighed 8 ounces. I will likely keep this as a creature comfort.
Clothing
Many of my errors came in the clothing category. Looking back at my original list, I ended up cutting about half of my clothing. You don’t need more than one of anything, except socks and underwear. I also got lighter versions of everything as I went along. The most critical piece of clothing is socks, and I am a huge fan of the Injini toe socks. I used the no-show lightweight and midweight socks, depending on the temperature. I HAD ONE BLISTER IN 2653 MILES. That is freaking amazing. The toe socks removed heat better and isolated my toes eliminating blisters between toes. I also rinsed my socks once or twice a day and dried them on my backpack as I hiked. Other favorite items include my Columbia sun shirt, REI Sahara pants, Arc’teryx Cerium SL Down Jacket, and Dirty Girl Gaters. The bottom line is to get good stuff that works and only bring one; that is enough.
Hiking Shoes
Last but certainly not least is the shoes that will support and protect your feet during the 5.3 million steps needed to cover the distance. Selecting shoes is a vital gear decision because most hiker injuries are feet and ankle-related. It is also the most expensive piece of gear because you will need five pairs to replace the shoes every 400 to 500 miles, as recommended. I was fighting pain in my left foot metatarsal joint during the four months before I even started on the trail. I could have been one of the first hikers to flame out had this not gone away. I went with the Hoka One Stinson shoes because they are the most cushioned shoe out there. I got a lot of comments about the shoes because they are noticeably wide and cushioned. They are not very durable, so I went through six pairs and one grand to keep my little piggies happy.
I started to fear my post-PCT adjustment about one month before completion. Ironically, I was also facing some resistance to hiking, particularly in the morning. I have been off the trail one week and decided to open the next chapter of my journey – returning home.
I coined the term Post Trail Adjustment Disorder (PTAD) to describe my transition experiences. The Mayo Clinic describes adjustment disorders as “conditions resulting in more stress than would normally be expected in response to a stressful or unexpected event, and the stress causes significant problems in your relationships, at work or school.” There is little written on this topic for thru-hikers, and what I found is labeled post-trail depression, which presumes that the only response to this transition is depression. One thing is for sure; the experience changes all thru-hikers. Understanding how to harness those changes for the better is not at all apparent.
Starting in Washington, hikers wrote messages on the PCT trail markers nailed into the trees. The markers were there to help keep us on the trail, but these comments provoked larger questions such as “how have I changed?”
I talked to 10+ hikers that had previously completed one or more multi-month thru-hikes. They shared stories of being disoriented for up to three months and not seamlessly returning to the flow of “normal” life. The disruption seemed to be more pronounced if they had quit their job before the hike or left their previous residence and needed to start afresh upon their return. Some were using the trail as a means for reflection or navigating a significant life change. For others, hiking the trail at this time was opportunistic such as after completing a degree. Universally, hikers did not want to lose their physical capacity or gain unwanted weight, which is common after our caloric needs plummet.
Curiosity
Of all the virtues
I find one opens all doors,
curiosity.
Ribs
The most powerful tool I have to navigate uncertainty is curiosity. Simply shifting an experience from a reaction to a question changes my ability to learn and adjust rapidly. Below is my approach to navigating this transition, and I plan to journal daily and then post what I learned and what worked in a month.
Finding Meaning
Even after one week, the richness and depth of my experience are starting to fade. It would be easy to dismiss my journey as a passing phase, a vacation, or perhaps a selfish attempt to be young again. I will explore several questions to find meaning in my hiking and transition experience.
How did the hiking experience change how I perceive and engage the world around me?
What aspects of those changes do I intend to bring into my daily life, and what practices are most effective?
Connect with people that want to discuss my experience to internalize my insights and learn from their perspectives.
Bring these experiences back into the present through walking and seated meditation.
Observe what situations in my daily life are most disruptive to these desired states.
Experiment with on-the-go practices to bring me back to my desired state when disrupted.
Exerting my Body
One thing I learned is that my body likes to be used to its fullest capacity. Exerting my body brings me joy and creates an ongoing connection at a cellular level.
What physical activities bring me joy and build on my new capacity?
What practices bring exerting my body into my daily life?
Experiment with new ways to exert my body to build new capabilities such as strength and flexibility.
Develop a weekly plan to integrate these practices into my daily life.
Experiment with on-the-go body scan practices to keep my body engaged during the day.
Changing Habits
I am a creature of habit; we all are. Habits are not bad. They are essential to efficiently move through a complex world, like putting my keys and wallet in the same place when I come into the house. That said, habits often outlive their original purpose and become unexamined behavioral traps. Returning from four months on the trail is the perfect time to examine and change habits that no longer serve. For example, I drank one cup of coffee per day during my hike, and I immediately reverted to my 5+ cups upon my return.
Which of my newly developed habits from the trail would serve me in my daily life?
What old habits are returning, and which do I wish to end or change during the transition?
Recreate my trail routine for one week to remember and examine the habits I created to hike for 12 hours a day safely.
Identify trail habits that I can integrate into my daily life.
Observe and journal my old habits as I return to daily life.
Identify those I wish to end or change and a specific approach to do so for each one.
Trip of a lifetime
Unfolding body and mind
into everything
Ribs
I touched the northern terminus of the Pacific Crest Trail on Thursday, August 19th at 10:36 a.m. after hiking 2,653.6 miles in 118 days. What truly surprised me, and I will never forget, is the rousing cheer from the ten thru-hikers serendipitously gathered at the end of their journeys. A Canadian woman named Frosty had hiked in eight miles from Manning Park, BC to bring a beautiful spread of trail magic, including chocolate, chips, fresh vegetables, and fruit that we so crave. Other hikers had brought in bottles of champagne, and I had packed a flask of 10-year aged rye whiskey. I never put much weight on the actual day of completing the PCT; it didn’t dawn on me how emotional and significant it would be.
My son Mitchell, who section hiked 800 miles of the PCT, told me before I left that this would be “a trip of a lifetime.” I was wondering whether I could even complete a hundred miles, let alone the whole thing. And I certainly didn’t know how significant this experience would be for me. He was right; this is a trip of a lifetime. He also told me that the relationships he built on the trail were as meaningful as the other aspects of the hike. I did not think I would have the same experience as an older solo-hiker amongst mostly young hikers. I was wrong; I felt respected, included, and loved by this community. They are living life all-in and are the most impressive athletes I have ever met.
Given that we cannot cross into Canada, PCT hikers must hike 30 miles from Harts Pass to the terminus and then turn around and hike 30 miles back. I’d left my tent and other camping equipment 15 miles back to reduce my pack weight. I had told myself to spend no more than 30 minutes at the terminus since the day required me to hike 30 miles and climb 8,000 feet. I was with the group for two hours and could have stayed for two days. I will never forget the warmth and love that the hikers shared and how each had supported one another. Amazingly, hikers that I had not seen for three months were there at the terminus, and it was just as if we had seen each other yesterday. Hiking back to camp was indeed a celebration with frequent whoops of joy and my feet felt like they floated up the 3,000 foot climb.
I will let my pictures do the talking to show the 90-mile section from Rainy Pass to the terminus and then back to Harts Pass. I’m also enabling the comments feature on the blog for the first time since I can now respond in a timely manner. I plan to write several other blog posts on topics that span the entire trail, such as what I’ve learned about gear, food, and reflections about the transformative nature of walking. Please feel free to share your observations, questions, or suggestions for future posts in the comments.
I have so appreciated your support by listening to my journey. This blog has helped me to reflect on my experience and put it into words. It is like a photographer looking through the lens and seeing more than they would have otherwise. I never intended to make this trip into something, I just wanted to hike. It led me to the advice of Parker Palmer in his book, Let Your Life Speak. In this beautiful little book, he asks us to look inside to see our place in the grand and magnificent universe we enjoy.
I look forward to seeing you down the trail.
The group of PCT thru-hikers celebrating together at the northern terminus. They, and the dozens of other hikers I shared the trail with, enriched and supported me in innumerable ways.It had rained most of the night at Rainy Pass, but the storm eased as I hiked through the cloud layer.Before starting from Rainy Pass, Pleasure-Way and I saw Stud Muffin, Green Man, and Shepherd starting their hike. Pleasure-Way offered blueberry muffins and a flask with rye whiskey for their celebration in three days. By the way, hiking kilts are pretty popular as an alternative to rain pants.The sun came out on the second day. I took this photo as I climbed from my campsite on Glacier Pass to Tatie Peak.I saw two female grouse next to the trail on the second day. My son, Scott, and his wife, Katie, told me that seeing a grouse in the wild is a rare treat. I had heard the deep thumping mating call of the male grouse since the Sierra but had never seen one. These birds were so calm, almost soulful, as they watched me pass.On the third day, I started hiking in the dark to get to the terminus and back. The dew was slowly losing its grip on Rock Pass as I hiked past at 5:30 am.Sunrise on the third day as I continued to climb the ridges to get to the terminus.Three months earlier, I dreamed about doing a tree pose at the northern terminus. The cadre celebrating together supported me with catcalls and whoops as I gave it my best shot. The border is the opposite of a wall – it is a narrow clear-cut running through the forest. I am the only tree standing as you can see the clear-cut extending off into the distance behind me.Pleasure-Way alerted me that the earlier rain forecast had become more severe for the hike out. The clouds told the same story as we hiked back to camp.We woke on day four in a cloud as we started our last 15 miles of the journey. Thankfully, it eased during the day but came on strong after driving out of Harts Pass. The road into Harts Pass is not for the timid, with 10 miles of cliffs over a road that deserves a 4WD.Our successful cadre of thru-hikers, meeting family and waiting for transportation out of Harts Pass.
I just completed the amazing and challenging Glacier Peak Wilderness section of the PCT. In six days, I covered 127-miles from Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass with 38K feet of climbing. There is a lot to unpack from my past and current attempt to enjoy the elusive Glacier Peak.
The first attempt was back in college organized by my brother, Bill. The three-day trip was to enter from the west then climb up one of the ridges to enjoy a view of Glacier Peak in all its splendor. We entered via a lush forest trail on the first day before climbing the ridge. We were caught in a torrent so heavy that it flooded our tent. It was so bad that the mice decided to shelter in our tent and raid our food. I remember six people covered in mud trying to dig drainage ditches, fend off mice, and stay warm. Defeated but not dejected, we exited and found other ways to spend our 3-day weekend. I wrote that trip off to inexperience, bad gear, and bad luck.
The second attempt was on my shoulders, leading my family into a similar hike to view the magnificent Glacier Peak from a ridge to the west. The results were the same; we climbed, were destroyed by a rainstorm, and exited with never a glimpse of the mythical peak. This disaster was entirely on me as I chose to ignore the weather report and advice from the ranger at Darrington.
It is only reasonable that my third attempt to hike near Glacier Peak made me nervous. Upon leaving Stevens Pass and climbing the ridges from the south, I was amazed to take pictures of what I thought might just be a legend. However, after climbing Red’s Pass and dropping into a river valley, Glacier Peak disappeared once again, shrouded in smoke from a fire. That set the tone for six days of massive climbs up and down the river valleys surrounding Glacier Peak with glimpsing views through the smoke. Early on, I committed to returning to this magnificent area a fourth time to explore without the threat of fires.
I now have a much clearer picture of both the beauty and the difficulty of the North Cascades. The glacial peaks (Washington has 186 named glaciers versus Oregon 35 and California 20) remind me of the Sierra and the Alps. The 3,500-foot descents and climbs traverse thickly forested river valleys, dense underbrush, and open scree fields. I swam in two glacier-tinted lakes and felt every cell shout, hell yes. I saw plenty of bear scat and heard elk bugle at sunset. I have not backpacked in Alaska, but one thru-hiker made that comparison. The challenges mainly came from the relentless climbs, the bugs, and staying cool during another heatwave. Hikers don’t mention the mosquitos in these parts because they are hardly noticed amongst the swarming small biting flies and the Imperial-Trooper-sized deer flies. Within two days, I was at my wit’s end.
On the third morning, I sent Pleasure-Way a message on my Garmin saying I felt like stopping. She wrote back, “hang in there; you got this.” I met Endless and QB, two triple crown hikers from Boston, who provided some much-needed support. “We are being tested; you got this.” I can’t tell you how much the phrase “you got this” helps from family, friends, and fellow hikers. It may sound like a two-bit cheer, but it sure does the job. “You” is speaking to the many layers of self that have walked this journey with me. “got this” is an affirmation that I have developed the body, mind, and practices to finish this hike. It is hard to put into words how important your support is.
I have 61 miles and 16.3 K feet of climbing to reach the border. I will then turn around and hike 30 miles back to Hart’s Pass. See you on the other side.
I have visited many wilderness areas on this hike. This sign sent a shiver down my spine.I had to pull out my map to confirm that this was the elusive Glacier Peak.The climb up Red’s Pass gave me the first glimpse of the four additional passes ahead.You can barely make out Glacier Peak in this photo. Depending on the ever-changing smoke and light, it would fade in and out over the next four days.I faced a dangerous river crossing early on my third day when I felt like quitting. I wrote the following Haiku, and this river crossing brought me back to the present moment.
The log is the way My feet lead me through chaos There is nothing elseThe layers and layers of underbrush were beautiful and sometimes claustrophobic.Swimming in Mica Lake, pure joy and brought my core temperature down instantly.The view from my campsite on day four; I didn’t even know these mountains were there when I hiked in through the smoke and fading light.Navigating around blow-down trees is hard enough. In Washington, they can be the size of a house.Cooler weather and even some showers came in on day six; what a relief.
PCT hikers generally assume that the Sierra Nevada section ends at Sonora Pass, where they are relieved to stop carrying their food in a bear canister. Geologists know the Sierra continues another 270 miles to the North Fork of the Feather River, where I ended hiking today. The name “melting pot” came to me early as I saw the ever-changing combinations of high desert, deep forests, polished granite, basalt columns, and volcanic cones. The name made even more sense as I started to adjust to the heatwave that swept across the west.
I have now closed the gap between California’s southern sections with the start of the Cascades. I am excited to be at mile 1501 and ready for my trek northward from Castle Crags. Heat is my new reality, and once again, I need to re-think my gear and approach. I hiked three days with temperatures bordering on 100 degrees, and I immediately noticed the added energy required to cool my body when I am already operating in a caloric deficit. My plan is to lighten my gear and carry more food, but one thing I can count on is continuously making adjustments.
The Desolation Wilderness is a small but spectacular section near South Lake Tahoe starting with Aloha Lake.Climbing up Dick’s pass provides a great view of Suzie Lake in the foreground and Aloha Lake in the distance. The polished granite reminded me of Yosemite, but the volcanic peaks look much more like the Cascades.I like to start hiking around 6 AM and then enjoy a proper second-breakfast of gourmet oatmeal and coffee. This friendly face watched me as I sat above Lake Tahoe. I stopped dead in my tracks when I spotted this “Tahoe Bouquet.” It was as if someone had arranged the Mules Ears (yellow), Indian Paintbrush (red), and Nuttall’s Larkspur (purple).After leaving Donner Pass, I had my first sustained thunderstorm. Sierra Buttes flashed ominously in the distance.Hiking Sierra Buttes was a 3500-foot climb from Sierra City, featured in Cheryl Strayed’s book and movie. I got started at 6 AM, and the views looked more like Oregon and Washington.The hottest and most difficult section covered over 20 miles of hiking through the North Complex fires of 2020. The 100-degree heat radiated back from the barren landscape. This was my most challenging day yet on the trail.One hiker described the Canyon Valley Spring as the “cold nectar of the gods.” These springs tap into artesian sources where hikers can reach the water before it disappears into the dry ground.
100 Degree Hiking
Heat comes in waves
Straining my body's cooling
Each breeze is pure joy
Ribs
Freezing wind and hail
will surely tear me apart.
Dawn comes, I'm still here.
Rib's tent
Several days into my six-day, 117-mile hike from Mammoth Lakes to Sonora Pass, a day hiker gave me the title for this post. As I shared my misadventure, he said, “Oh, I guess you haven’t heard about Juneuary in Yosemite.” My blank face was a sufficient answer. By the way, Urban Dictionary defines Juneuary as a Washington thing.
Storm clouds hung over Ansel Adams Wilderness all afternoon before the storm broke loose.
During my first day after leaving Mammoth Lakes, I was hit by an unexpected storm that dropped the overnight temperatures into the teens with wind gusts to 40 mph and snow. It was the coldest night of the entire PCT. Fortunately, my tent held up and I stayed warm in my sleeping bag; it is the best.
Everything was frozen in the morning, including small streams.
I decided to get moving early to warm up – I had two passes to climb before getting to Tuolumne Meadows. The temperature was still below freezing but it had warmed by the time I summited Donohue Pass, the last pass over 11K feet. A ranger reminded me that I had entered Yosemite and, honestly, I thought it an odd comment. We have crossed through dozens of national forests, parks, and wilderness areas by this time. Looking back, he was also giving me a heads up that Yosemite is different.
I reached Thousand Island Lake before starting my first passSnow on the mountains surrounding Donohue Pass
Tuolumne Meadows is the gateway to Yosemite missed by 99% of park visitors. It starts with a series of beautiful meadows and the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River as it meanders through the smoothly polished granite peaks. From there, I descended into thick forests and met my new nemesis, the mosquito. The snowpack was deeper in Yosemite than the southern Sierra and had just melted. The one thing every backpacker knows is that you stay home in June when the masses rise from the still water looking for blood. Now I know that thru-hiker DNA dominates the mosquito gene pool. Those tiny beings can drive all of us sophisticated humans insane.
Your purpose is clear
to sip one drop of my blood
anger is no match
Ribs (trying to chill out)
Hiking by the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River The deep forests of Yosemite were such a contrast to previous barren landscapes.Dorothy Lake provided a breeze to keep the bugs at bay during an extended lunch stop.
The third challenge in Yosemite started on day 3, the quantity and pitch of the climbs. The peaceful meadows turned into repeated 1000 foot climbs and descents over “trails” that looked more like scenes from Mordor.
Days three through five included an unrelating series of named and unnamed passes over this rugged terrain.This is one of the more organized trail sections with others looking like stream beds. About 20% of the hikers I talked with developed ankle or knee issues from the constant pounding.
The final day was amazing as I climbed out of Yosemite into the Edison and Emigrant Wilderness areas. The landscape completely changed to wide open climbs and vistas stradling Mt. Leavitt. I was ecstatic to meet Pleasure-Way for a much-needed zero, and we were lucky to give Magic Marker and Steps a lift into town.
The climb was gradual switchbacks but had five different summits to view every side of this new landscape.The wind provided a constant light show reflected from the lakeMagic Marker and Steps getting recharged on the way into town
Thru-hiking like life brings toil and uncertainty to ask who am I? Ribs
I am writing from the comfort of a motel in Mammoth Lakes. I came off the trail today after the most physically challenging week so far with a profound appreciation of the scenic beauty and the responsibility we assume when thru-hiking. In seven days I covered 123 miles with 32K elevation gain from eight passes averaging over 11K feet.
I was joined by my nephew, Peter, an experienced Sierra climber and back country skier. His presence boosted my confidence to navigate the three highest passes with snow.
Kearsarge Pass, at nearly 12K feet, is required just to get back to the PCTGlen Pass, our second 12K pass of the first day, required several steep snow field traverses – not a big deal for Peter but I fell several timesLooking back at Glen Pass from the Rae Lakes
I could have written a nice post titled “Big Day – The Sequel” after two major climbs on the first day. But we were just getting started. Every day we climbed as quickly as possible to summit the next pass before the snow got too soft or possible afternoon thunderstorms materialized. We then dropped 3K feet to the valley floor to camp before starting the sequence again. It makes me tired just listing our Big Week itinerary.
Day 1: Kearsarge 12K and Glen 12K
Day 2: Pinchot 12K
Day 3: Mather 12K
Day 4: Muir 12K
Day 5: Selden 11K
Day 6: Silver 11K
Day 7: Mammoth 10K
We met him at first light of day 2 sharing the river valley, the first of many deer over the weekPinchot Pass featured the barren moonscape of the southern SierraLooking back from Mather to Pinchot Pass showed our day 3 work
Peter and I were most concerned about Muir Pass because of the snow depth. It was the most scenic section of the PCT so far. The intense azure blue of the lakes and sky radiated off the snow and ice.
Peter leads the way up Muir PassThe John Muir shelter, built in 1930, saves lives when storms close in on this highly exposed landscapeWanda Lake, north of Muir Pass, defines radianceThe ice flow moved with the wind, I had to peel my eyes away lest I would still be sitting there
The descent from Muir took us into the magical Evolution Valley. I have tried to hike this section for years but permits and fires have intervened. It is the transition from the barren Sierra peaks to the lush forests that stretch from valley floor to alpine lakes.
We shared our campsite view with the residents of Evolution Valley
The constant pounding of the descents took a toll on Peter. He dealt with a daily barrage of blisters but then he re-activated knee issues that quickly escalated. He decided to hike 16 miles out rather than continue 45 more miles and risk an evacuation. It was a hard decision but demonstrated the most important responsibility we have in remote wilderness situations – know your limits at every moment. Later we concluded the issue was likely using climbing approach shoes. Every thru-hiker tweaks their gear, food, and body care over weeks and months – Peter had five days.
Foot care at its best
I continued north to finish the last three passes and 45 miles. I had hiked this section with Jenessa in 2017 so it was fun to experience the trail again and remember the trip that inspired me to hike the PCT.
Silver Pass was number seven and a crazy day of climbingAfter a full meal, I decided to take on a mammoth mud pie. You’re damn right I finished it with an audience at the next table.
In our attempt to hike the entire PCT this summer, we have been jumping north to hike short sections of the trail while waiting for the snow to melt in the Sierra. These disjointed sections were, in fact, a wonderful introduction to the Cascade Mountains. I hiked 214 miles from Belden to Castle Crags State Park on I-5 in four hikes over nine days through the Mt. Lassen and Mt. Shasta National Forests.
This sign announcing entry into the Cascades Range is 400 PCT miles from the Oregon border.
In my initial attempt to hike up north three weeks ago, Home Alone, I didn’t see many people but did find signs of bears and plenty of snow. These themes continued as I encountered only five parties backpacking over the entire distance. It was unnerving at first, but I came to appreciate the solitude. Signs of bears continued, and I spent time trying to understand their activities – I never saw one, which is always the goal. And, yes, the snow found new ways to tease and torment, reminding me that I am simply a visitor in nature’s house.
Looking 30 miles south at Mt. Lassen from Hat Creek Rim Looking 100 miles north at Mt. Shasta from Hat Creek RimA recent bear print near Mt. LassenBear scat full of Juniper berries inspired me to alert them near Juniper groves.
The next time we jumped north to avoid a snowstorm in the Sierra came after The Amazing South Sierra. I began by hiking a 46-mile section near Mt. Lassen, thinking that the worst of the snow would hit in the Sierra. I stayed with Pleasure-Way after completing that section and was surprised to find four inches of snow at our campsite the next day and likely six to eight inches covering my planned route. We decided to make a quick dash home and found that the snow stretched far north into Oregon at PCT trail elevations.
Fresh snow on May 20 at Old Station near Mt. Lassen 2,500 feet below where I was hiking the day beforeThe snow highlighted the magnificent trees in the Mt. Lassen National Park
We returned after a few days to complete the section. I will leave you with some visual and poetic images of the southern Cascade Mountains. I look forward to hiking the remaining 1,150 miles of the Cascades after I complete the Sierra.
The Sugar Pine trees were the winner in the pine cone category, with a close second going to the Gray Pines.My campsite at sunrise looking down on Lake AlmanorSnow plants signal the start of spring, bursting forth from snowbanks
Emerging from snow
everything given freely
sweet nectar of life.
Ribs
I am sending this post from the highest place in the continental US. My son, Scott, and I started our climb at 2 AM and arrived to watch the sunrise over Death Valley. Scott joined me at Kennedy Meadows, and we have hiked 75 miles and climbed nearly 20K feet. Summiting Whitney was worth every step.
Getting Ready – approaching Mt. Whitney from the east
We hiked into Crabtree Meadows yesterday to prepare for the 7.8 mile, 4K foot climb.
Looking for the trail is a team effort.
We left camp at 2 AM and worked together to find the trail with our headlamps.
Watching the sunrise over Death Valley.We used sleeping bags to wait for the sun.At the top of the Continental US.
Exhaling crystals
heart pounds like a pile driver
Mt. Whitney awaits.
Ribs
