I am dedicating this post to feeding future PCT hikers. I remember sitting in your chair thinking this idea is madness and the details- overwhelming. But know after your preparation, you will stand at the Mexican border on your start day, throw consideration to the wind, and take the first of 5.3 million steps. I met a PCT veteran providing trail magic that said he feels the energy and passion of the new class every year. It keeps drawing him back to support and meet them. Here is my virtual attempt, and I look forward to meeting some of you when you pass through Oregon.
Pleasure-Way and I have a New Year’s Eve tradition of looking back through our calendars and photos to remind us of the year we are departing. One memory stood out that foreshadowed 2021’s wild and unpredictable nature. My story marks your last opportunity to get permits for 2022 this coming Tuesday, January 11, at 10:30 AM Pacific Standard Time.
This was just another day in the zoomsphere with Kiki, my daughter’s COVID kitty. It was like the day when an algorithm changed my life.
This time last year, I dutifully logged into the permit application system two hours before it opened in hopes that waiting at the start line would give me an advantage. Due to COVID, the PCTA did not issue permits until January. The seconds ticked away until the portal came to life, and I entered the queue. My excitement plummeted when I saw that 9536 people were randomly placed ahead of me to get one of the 2500 permits. I watched in disbelief for a few moments while in a zoom meeting. My place in line decremented every 20 seconds, translating to a 53-hour queue. Any sane person would have logged out. Instead, I trodded upstairs and started harvesting sour grapes. “It was a stupid idea anyway.” “I could never have made it.” During lunch, I felt relieved that an algorithm had rescued me.
When I returned to my zoomsphere of meetings, my queue number was 15. What the hell, where did all those people go? I told my work colleagues that I would rejoin after figuring out what to do when it was my turn. You only have 10 minutes to start the process once you get in and 20 minutes to make your permit selection. I grabbed one of the remaining early permits on March 29. I didn’t know what had happened. I felt like my future just branched, and whatever I thought it was an hour before was no longer. Later, I discovered that other hikers logged into the permit system with multiple computers and asked family, friends, and neighbors to log in. Then they kept the best queue position and logged off the others – duh!
I sent this chat to family members. It reminds me of how trivial things like permits and hiking are in the grand scheme.
There is nothing more personal and unique than the food choices made by my fellow hikers. I am more engineer and less artist in the domain of backpacking food, and my packing ritual looked like an assembly line. On the other extreme was a talented hiker named Tuna, who selected the cheapest food available along the way. He had only brought muffins for breakfast, lunch, and dinner on the six-day stretch where we met. Some people bring fresh ingredients and actually cook meals, and others don’t bring a stove and hydrate their food cold. Some think it is all about calories filling their packs with junk food, and others follow a vegan diet. My suggestions are one slice through a myriad of choices. I broke down the process into three steps.
My favorite meal of the day was “second breakfast,” consisting of an oatmeal concoction and coffee smothered in heavy cream, giving me 1700 calories. I typically started hiking by 6 AM and then stopped after four hours for a proper break. This photo is in the Sierra just south of Mammouth Lakes.
Step one is to determine your daily caloric needs. You can start with your Basal Metabolic Rate, which considers your height, age, gender, and activity level. My BMR is around 2300 calories. My simple approach was to add 110 calories per mile of hiking, bringing me to 4720 calories for a 22-mile day. I like this backpacking calorie calculator, which provides more variables to play with and gives me a range of 4500 to 5350 calories for a 22-mile day. That seems like a ton of calories, and it is too high for hikes of a week or less. But this caloric calculation was accurate after one month when my readily available fat was gone. I lost 19 pounds in a month and I kept increasing my food to end the hike only 13 pounds down.
Step two is translating caloric needs into a food plan. I set a goal to carry foods that, on average, contained 120 calories per ounce. If I assume 4800 calories a day, I need to carry 40 oz or 2.5 lbs per day. I would typically leave my resupply stops with four days of food weighing 10 pounds or around 40% of my total pack weight.
Step 3 is deciding what food you want to bring that meets the 120 calories per ounce goal. I started searching far and wide for interesting options. Not surprisingly, I ended up on some survivalists web sites as they prepare for the apocalypse. Food choice is not just about calories; you must want to eat it day after day. I found that my digestive system changed, so I needed to pay attention to how my body responded to constantly eating and moving at the same time. My food experiment never ended, but I did land in a place that worked well. You can download Rib’s Food List and Calculator below, which shows my diet during the last two months.
Thanks to Pleasure-Way’s support, I was able to load up on fresh fruit and vegetables several times a week. This photo was taken after a 25-mile day climbing out of the San Gorgonio Pass into Big Bear.
I can feel the anticipation and energy build as you prepare for this beautiful adventure. I hope to share some logistical tidbits before you hit the trail.
Have you have ever thought about becoming a dedicated trail angel or hoped that someone would take on this role during your thru-hike? If so, this blog is for you. I caught up to Pleasure-Way for an exclusive interview about her secrets to being the best trail angel on the PCT in 2021.
Thank you for taking the time to join me today now that you have moved out of your van. My readers have been asking – what is the real story behind your trail name, Pleasure-Way?
Pleasure-Way:As is the tradition, my trail name was offered to me by a hiker, Twister, and I decided to go with it. I get some smiles and comments when people first hear it but bringing pleasure to thru-hikers in the form of food, and moral support is what trail magic is all about. It is also the van’s name, so hikers make the connection right away.
Ribs and Scott preparing for entering the Sierra with Pleasure-Way.
Your name certainly worked; I have met hikers that knew about Pleasure-Way and had no idea who Ribs was. How long were you living on the road, and what were some of the high and low points you faced?
Pleasure-Way: Staying in the van for the better part of five months was certainly a new experience. I was very comfortable driving and operating the vehicle and covered over 13K miles since leaving home. The van gave me a feeling of self-sufficiency, and I could control my physical space during the spring when the vaccine rollout was ramping up. I enjoyed the simplicity of living, exploring, and seeing new roads, parks, and towns from Mexico to Canada. I met a lot of interesting people, both thru-hikers and fellow travelers. I won’t miss laundromats or driving the steep and narrow roads without guardrails to get to some of the remote trailheads. I also won’t miss buying deli chicken for trail magic – a real hit with the hikers, but I hope I never see it again.
Pleasure-Way, at Scissors Crossing, was already meeting an interesting mix of past hikers that return every year to provide trail magic.On the road again, Pleasure-Way got to know California’s HWY 395 quite well.Pleasure-Way had to navigate blazing heat, snow, and wildfires.
How would you describe your role in terms of supporting Ribs?
Pleasure-Way:My overall role was to provide options for meeting to make Rib’s life a little easier. There was a chance for a shower, home-cooked meal, and equipment exchange (no longer need that ice ax? trade out the old shoes?) as well as a chance to fill out the wish list (new items from REI, specific food requests). We would exchange food supplies for garbage, clean clothes for dirty, and reassess the plan for the next segment.
Coming off the trail at Stevens Pass – the trail magic begins.All the resupply gear was in labeled boxes making repacking and gear changes easy
What was the most challenging part of supporting Ribs?
Pleasure-Way: The biggest challenge was that the plan changed constantly. We learned this early on when Ribs hiked faster than expected – so the initial plan, which had campground reservations up until Kennedy Meadows, was flawed from the get-go. I had little problem making new reservations in the spring, but it became harder to find open spots as summer began. I discovered fewer available campgrounds with hookups north of Kennedy Meadows, so I had to rely more on private RV parks. Some RV parks were very nice, like the Mountain Gate RV Park south of Shasta Lake. Other locations along the way were less inviting but met the needs for safety, power, water, and sewer. So, my biggest challenge was figuring out when and where to locate the Sprinter van when it was not a meetup day. I also learned that Ribs became very focused on the next trail segment and had trouble planning beyond that. I started making predictions and then adjusted as needed.
Life in the van became the new normal.Dusk at Lake Cahuilla Regional Park near Palm Desert.
My takeaway from your last answer is that you would create detailed plans and be okay if Ribs hiked faster or made some other changes and then you would do it all again – sounds frustrating. I guess that’s why they call you a trail angel. What was the most fun aspect of being a part of this hiking team? Beyond the logistical support, what did you find was needed to support Ribs from a psychological or emotional perspective?
Pleasure-Way:I truly enjoyed hearing the stories from the trail and getting to know other thru-hikers in real-time. At first, Ribs was reluctant to connect with other hikers and was self-conscious about my support. I jumped in and started engaging other hikers, and we both enjoyed being a part of their hiking teams. His physical stamina improved, so he looked fresh coming off the trail, but I noticed early on that he was not tracking day-to-day life as is usual. For example, I told him about a young swimmer from Alaska, Lydia Jacoby, winning a swimming gold medal. It caught my attention since my parents met in Alaska. He asked if it was at the world championships. He did not even know the summer Olympics were going on, one of his favorite sporting events. I tried to be patient and actively listened when he came off the trail, offering positive reinforcement that this was doable for him. I reviewed my latest plan with him for feedback rather than creating it together.
It was common for Pleasure-Way to transport hikers to and from the trail head.Pleasure-Way, Ribs and family greeting a young family with some young girls who are very interested in becoming PCT hikers.
It sounds like you also had to deal with a lot of uncertainty about Rib’s condition when he came off the trail. What did you both do to get him recharged and back on the trail?
Pleasure-Way: We became experts at overnight meetups at trail/road intersections to resupply and get him back on the trail in the morning. We did this 30 times, which was a key reason we pulled so much time out of the original plan. Ribs provided pretty accurate estimates when he would arrive, and he pushed the mileage to arrive in the afternoon. In some cases, I would hike down the trail to meet him, which was fun. I had some high-calorie foods for immediate consumption to start the recovery. He would typically shower, and we would talk about the upcoming trail segment. He would then unload and re-load his pack using a checklist with different gear based on the length and weather conditions. We had a duplicate set of clothing, making it an easy swap. Originally, Ribs only wrote blog posts when he took a day off (zero-day). He started reducing zero-days as the hike progressed, so he would dictate the blog on the trail and then edit it and post that night. Dinners became increasingly simpler as the hike progressed to suit his changing dietary needs. He was typically out on the trail by 6 AM the following day.
Ribs getting his first blast of calories after getting to the van. Finishing a blog post after dinner before heading out the next morning.Pleasure-Way sent Ribs out with a killer breakfast including protein blueberry/banana pancakes, three eggs, fruit and more.
Wow, your description reminds me of a pit-stop in the Indianapolis 500, except you are changing tires on a thru-hiker. What tools did you develop or use to be so successful?
Pleasure-Way: One of the most important tools used during the five months was a daily itinerary of the hiking plan over the entire PCT. Ribs created the first version to capture his initial guess. I used this tool to plan the hiking segments, resupplies, overnight meetups, and zero-days. It was created to be easily modified along the way and, in the end, serves as a detailed diary of each’s day’s progress. Ribs communicated his location and how he was doing every night from the trail using a Garmin satellite device which kept us connected and informed. I was also able to update him on any weather and fire concerns.
I took this initial plan and noted intersections of the trail with roads accessible by our Sprinter van. The large state atlases helped find the roads, but the crucial pieces were the National Geographic PCT trail maps and the Guthook app. After finding an intersection, I would map it through google maps to evaluate the route and check for road closures. I would complete the analysis with a final check back to the atlas to ensure that the road was drivable. In general, I tried to stay on paved roads since the quality of gravel/dirt roads is hard to predict (my vehicle wasn’t 4WD).
Pleasure-Way’s headquarters to do her logistics magic from Brite Lake.Pleasure-Way’s view while staying at lake Almanor.
My takeaway is that you were the one keeping track of the overall logistics and figuring out when and where you could deliver trail magic. All Ribs had to do was walk 12 hours a day; frankly, it seems like he had the easy job. What did you do on the days when you were not together?
Pleasure-Way: I needed to develop a second plan besides the PCT to park and stay in the Sprinter van safely. I could go 3-4 days without electrical or water hookups, staying for free on BLM lands or campgrounds. We would often boondock at the trailhead or in nearby BLM land or NFS campground for overnight meetups.
The ideal situation for me on my alone days was to find a centrally located campground with hookups. One of my favorites was the Brite Lake Campground, a county park outside of Tehachapi, California. I had ten days there, very happy to have the electrical hookup to allow for air conditioning. Sometimes I picked up Ribs and brought him to stay the night in the campground, but other times I met Ribs and stayed at the trailhead, returning to the campground the following day.
I was surprised to find that getting a hotel wasn’t a relaxing break for the most part. It did not remove the need to care for the Sprinter van (where to park, how to keep its power, etc.) For example, I was given a Mother’s Day present to stay in a nice hotel at Mammoth Lakes. I found out just before dark that they recommended I not leave any food in the vehicle because bears will break into unattended vehicles, even RVs, to get the food. I hauled my food, as well as Rib’s food supplies, into the hotel room.
Pleasure-Way giving Ribs encouragement as he left Trout Lake in Washington.
Thank you for telling us your secrets – I have a much better understanding of what it took to be the best trail angel in 2021. No wonder Ribs says that you are the key to his successful PCT thru-hike. What are the top five things our readers should know before taking on your role as a dedicated thru-hiker trail angel?
Pleasure-Way:
Be patient, expect constant change, both of the route and the needs of the thru-hiker.
Find meaningful ways to connect with others.
Let others know where you are.
When possible, stay where you have internet/cell connectivity to keep from being isolated – have frequent phone calls with family and friends.
Buy two Garmin satellite communicators, one for the hiker and one for the van, to stay in touch when either one is without cell coverage.
Trip of a lifetime
Unfolding body and mind
into everything
Ribs
I touched the northern terminus of the Pacific Crest Trail on Thursday, August 19th at 10:36 a.m. after hiking 2,653.6 miles in 118 days. What truly surprised me, and I will never forget, is the rousing cheer from the ten thru-hikers serendipitously gathered at the end of their journeys. A Canadian woman named Frosty had hiked in eight miles from Manning Park, BC to bring a beautiful spread of trail magic, including chocolate, chips, fresh vegetables, and fruit that we so crave. Other hikers had brought in bottles of champagne, and I had packed a flask of 10-year aged rye whiskey. I never put much weight on the actual day of completing the PCT; it didn’t dawn on me how emotional and significant it would be.
My son Mitchell, who section hiked 800 miles of the PCT, told me before I left that this would be “a trip of a lifetime.” I was wondering whether I could even complete a hundred miles, let alone the whole thing. And I certainly didn’t know how significant this experience would be for me. He was right; this is a trip of a lifetime. He also told me that the relationships he built on the trail were as meaningful as the other aspects of the hike. I did not think I would have the same experience as an older solo-hiker amongst mostly young hikers. I was wrong; I felt respected, included, and loved by this community. They are living life all-in and are the most impressive athletes I have ever met.
Given that we cannot cross into Canada, PCT hikers must hike 30 miles from Harts Pass to the terminus and then turn around and hike 30 miles back. I’d left my tent and other camping equipment 15 miles back to reduce my pack weight. I had told myself to spend no more than 30 minutes at the terminus since the day required me to hike 30 miles and climb 8,000 feet. I was with the group for two hours and could have stayed for two days. I will never forget the warmth and love that the hikers shared and how each had supported one another. Amazingly, hikers that I had not seen for three months were there at the terminus, and it was just as if we had seen each other yesterday. Hiking back to camp was indeed a celebration with frequent whoops of joy and my feet felt like they floated up the 3,000 foot climb.
I will let my pictures do the talking to show the 90-mile section from Rainy Pass to the terminus and then back to Harts Pass. I’m also enabling the comments feature on the blog for the first time since I can now respond in a timely manner. I plan to write several other blog posts on topics that span the entire trail, such as what I’ve learned about gear, food, and reflections about the transformative nature of walking. Please feel free to share your observations, questions, or suggestions for future posts in the comments.
I have so appreciated your support by listening to my journey. This blog has helped me to reflect on my experience and put it into words. It is like a photographer looking through the lens and seeing more than they would have otherwise. I never intended to make this trip into something, I just wanted to hike. It led me to the advice of Parker Palmer in his book, Let Your Life Speak. In this beautiful little book, he asks us to look inside to see our place in the grand and magnificent universe we enjoy.
I look forward to seeing you down the trail.
The group of PCT thru-hikers celebrating together at the northern terminus. They, and the dozens of other hikers I shared the trail with, enriched and supported me in innumerable ways.It had rained most of the night at Rainy Pass, but the storm eased as I hiked through the cloud layer.Before starting from Rainy Pass, Pleasure-Way and I saw Stud Muffin, Green Man, and Shepherd starting their hike. Pleasure-Way offered blueberry muffins and a flask with rye whiskey for their celebration in three days. By the way, hiking kilts are pretty popular as an alternative to rain pants.The sun came out on the second day. I took this photo as I climbed from my campsite on Glacier Pass to Tatie Peak.I saw two female grouse next to the trail on the second day. My son, Scott, and his wife, Katie, told me that seeing a grouse in the wild is a rare treat. I had heard the deep thumping mating call of the male grouse since the Sierra but had never seen one. These birds were so calm, almost soulful, as they watched me pass.On the third day, I started hiking in the dark to get to the terminus and back. The dew was slowly losing its grip on Rock Pass as I hiked past at 5:30 am.Sunrise on the third day as I continued to climb the ridges to get to the terminus.Three months earlier, I dreamed about doing a tree pose at the northern terminus. The cadre celebrating together supported me with catcalls and whoops as I gave it my best shot. The border is the opposite of a wall – it is a narrow clear-cut running through the forest. I am the only tree standing as you can see the clear-cut extending off into the distance behind me.Pleasure-Way alerted me that the earlier rain forecast had become more severe for the hike out. The clouds told the same story as we hiked back to camp.We woke on day four in a cloud as we started our last 15 miles of the journey. Thankfully, it eased during the day but came on strong after driving out of Harts Pass. The road into Harts Pass is not for the timid, with 10 miles of cliffs over a road that deserves a 4WD.Our successful cadre of thru-hikers, meeting family and waiting for transportation out of Harts Pass.
The title of this blog may bring back memories of watching Sesame Street as a kid or with your kids. But, I go with what comes to me on the trail, and this was it. Come to think of it, I may have turned into Cookie Monster – more on that later. W is for “Wet” certainly works since I’ve spent three of the last four days hiking in the rain. W is for “Wild” is also an accurate description of the landscape since hiking north from Chinook to Stevens Pass. And as you will see from the photos, W is for “Wow” is undisputable from my photos, even with marginal weather. But what got me thinking of W is looking at the elevation map I would face in northern Washington.
Washington started with a big climb coming out of the Columbia River but then settled into rolling forests with moderate elevation changes similar to Oregon. That changed beginning at Chinook Pass, and as I prepared for the last 325 miles, I saw a repeating pattern of W’s, not seen since the Sierra.
This graph shows the trail’s elevation change in the last segment and represents what is coming over the next 189 miles. W is for “Watts” as in the amount of energy and focus I will need to complete this amazing trail..
The rain over the last three days has pointed out limitations in my gear. I have previously dealt with thunderstorms or showers that last maybe three hours. Afterward, it is easy to dry out the tent. Or, if the rain is continuous and I am at a base camp, we leave the tent up, which works fine. But facing steady rain and compressing a wet tent into my backpack showed a weakness. I love the tent; it has withstood 60 mile/hour winds and protected me at wind chill temperatures below zero. But the lightweight nylon fabric eventually does absorb water if compressed over a long period. Thru-hikers are always on the move so our tents must packed everyday wet or dry. After the hike, I will be writing a blog titled “Gear Heads” to share my observations about my gear and other options.
The Kendall Katwalk, a 3,400-foot climb out of Snoqualmie Pass, was wrapped in the building rainstorm. This trail is not for people with a fear of heights.My rain-soaked tent, after three days, was losing its water resistance.
I’ve often talked about the significance of Trail Magic. It has ranged from a homemade chocolate chip cookie given by a day hiker to full meals. But no matter what the offering, it has a tremendous positive impact on thru-hikers. It is a beautiful sign that other people appreciate and value what we’re doing and will go out of their way to acknowledge it. Here at Stevens Pass, I was fortunate to be the recipient of Trail Magic from my sister and her husband as well as Pleasure-Way’s sister and husband. I certainly have made a dent in my caloric deficit with the wonderful meals and desserts they’ve provided. Tonight I had a tender T-bone steak, corn chowder, salad, and a huge piece of fresh peach pie. Tomorrow night is a surprise, but I can’t wait for round two.
I was offered a homemade chocolate chip cookie from a group of women day hiking. They asked great questions and I guess I passed the test – yummy. My second round of homemade cookies came from Velvet, espresso chocolate chip – yummy + buzz.The family showed up in force at Stevens Pass to offer encouragement and fantastic food. From left to right are Duffy, Bud, Mary, Sophie, Dan, Ribs, Pleasure-Way, and Velvet.This is hands down the best steak I have had since starting the hike. It disappeared and will probably show up in my upcoming food dreams.Velvet made a fresh peach pie with homemade crust. She got the portion size just right.
I am setting forth on my final two segments on the Pacific Crest Trail, with 189 miles left with a gross climbing of 54K feet. That is 50% more climbing per mile than the average. These are difficult segments and will test my physical and mental preparation from the last 108 days. I enter them with genuinely mixed emotions because I know this journey is coming to an end, and it has been the trip of a lifetime. I will likely not blog until I return from the Canadian border since there is limited mobile coverage. Safe travels, and may the trail provide.
A view looking back at the mountains and lakes just north of Snoqualmie Pass.I camped at Spectacle Lake the first night and got some rain breaks before the next rain storm. I turned the corner in a switchback to see this rainbow. In an instant, it was gone. Rainbows remind me of my Mom and she was sending her Trail Magic my direction.I spent my final night at Glacier Lake and woke up to a beautiful sunrise – welcome back sun!
Native American Legend provides a vivid description of the formation and destruction of the Bridge of the Gods. As the Klickitat tribe tells it, the Great Spirit had two warring sons, Pahto to the north of the river and Wy’east to the south. The Bridge of the Gods was created as a way for the family to meet, but the brothers fought over a beautiful woman named Loowit. Their anger shook the earth with fire. The bridge fell into the river. Loowit could not choose between the brothers, and some say she perished in the fighting. For punishment, the Great Spirit turned his sons into mountains — Pahto into Mount Adams and Wy’east into Mount Hood. Loowit became the beautiful Mount St. Helens.
Geologists believe that such a land bridge did exist after the Bonneville landslide, roughly 1,500 years ago, sent a large amount of debris from the northern side of the gorge into the Columbia River. The debris blocked the Columbia River with a natural dam approximately 200 feet high and 3.5 miles long, possibly allowing Native Americans to cross the river. Eventually, the river broke through the barrier and washed away most of the debris, forming the Cascades Rapids, submerged in 1938 by the construction of the Bonneville Dam.
The Bridge of the Gods is also where Cheryl Strayed decided to end her 1,100 mile, 94-day PCT hike. Her book, Wild (2012), and the subsequent movie (2014), starring Reese Witherspoon and produced by her film company, has added more mythology to the PCT and this particular location. Her story struck a chord. In The New York Times,Dani Shapiro called the book “spectacular… at once a breathtaking adventure tale and a profound meditation on the nature of grief and survival.” I have met hikers from across the world motivated to hike the PCT based on Wild.
As I crossed the bridge at 5:30 AM, I was struck by the power of this place. It was more than my angst looking down 140 feet through steel grates into the swirling Columbia River. The full moon in the west reminded me of my Zen group’s metta service offered each month. Metta, or loving-kindness, is a practice of directing positive energy and kindness to oneself and then to an ever-expanding circle, including those you dislike. Perhaps this practice could have benefitted Pahto and Wy’east. I wondered how this journey would contribute to me and others. It urged me to look deeper during my remaining days to discover new insights that might emerge. The journey has given me an entirely new perspective of how my two-trillion cells function through my experience rather than my conceptual understanding. I will carry those insights through the rest of my days, but what else does the trail wish to teach me?
As for the details, I completed 2,147 miles in 94 hiking days, including all the open sections of California and Oregon. That is an average of about 23 miles per day. As expected, the pace in Oregon was faster, completing the open sections in 15 days, or about 26 miles per day. I plan to slow the pace down in Washington due to the increased difficulty and savor the remaining time.
I see Mt. Hood from the south the most from the ski areas.Mt. Hood in the summer is a beautiful place shared by many enthusiasts from climbers, hikers, mountain bikers, and even skiers and snowboarders engaged in race camps. My children, all aspiring racers, spent time up here in the summer training in the day and rubbing shoulders with world-class skiers and cleaning the dorms at night to earn their keep.My brother Charles treated me to brunch at the historic Timberline Lodge (shout out to my sister for the great idea). Charles is to blame for getting my father into backpacking which then infected the rest of us. By the way, I don’t suggest “all you can eat” buffets when thru-hikers are in the vicinity.Circumnavigating Mt. Hood requires a series of deep dives into the valleys that are the source of the White and Sandy rivers.This is the first time I have had a close-up view of Mt. Hood from the northwest. You can see why few climbers take this route. I decided to take the PCT alternate route down the Eagle Creek trail, which has been re-opened since a devastating fire three years ago. Tunnel Falls is one of many beautiful falls and refreshing swimming holes to explore.Brother-in-law and sister-in-law, Jeff and Lynne, kindly picked me up at the Eagle Creek trailhead and provided much-needed trail magic in the form of chocolate milk and ice cream bars, followed by a healthy dinner.The now-famous East Wind Drive-In in Cascade Locks is featured as the last stop on Cheryl Strayed’s journey. It was all lit up as I started hiking at 5 AM.The swirling Columbia River and full moon as I crossed the Bridge of the Gods. Chapter Three begins here. I am so looking forward to getting to know the beautiful state of Washington.Hiking out of the Columbia River Gorge takes 5K feet of climbing to gain 3.5k feet in elevation. The gorge is the lowest point on the trail and one of the most anticipated milestones on the PCT.
In 2008, my son Mitchell and I started PCT section hiking with a 45-mile hike through the Sisters Wilderness Area. Retracing those steps, I recalled many funny stories and truly appreciate how fortunate I am that this is my backyard. It is more accurate to say that this is our backyard. These public lands are preserved for generations to come. These lands were the ancestral homes of the native peoples who lived here sustainably over many centuries before colonization.
It is natural and appropriate to have pride in the place we live. That was on full display during the hike in 2008 when I would ask the thru-hikers what their favorite section was so far. I was waiting for the correct answer; “it’s here in the Sisters”. The only response we heard was the Sierra, which did pique my interest to hike there. Over the years, I have doubted whether the Sisters Wilderness was, in fact, as special as I believed it to be. I will let you be the judge as you look at my photos from the last two days. I re-discovered the uniqueness of this combination of volcanic peaks, deep forests, and open plains. I have not seen anything like it.
One of my favorite stories from 2008 was our packs, which we felt were lightweight because they were less than 40 pounds. We were amazed to see thru-hikers zip by with what we would consider day packs. I remember Dragon Ant; he had a tiny pack and was logging 40 miles a day. I can still see him almost skipping over the ground. We got lost in the snow for at least 3 hours, developed an amazing array of blisters from hiking in wet boots, and did not carry enough water to cross the lava flow section. Despite all our troubles, Mitchell went on to section hike 800 miles in 2015, and I crossed the 2000-mile mark today.
The lesson that I share with hikers that I meet along the way is to be patient with yourself. Whether this is your first backpacking trip or you’ve been doing it for decades, you always make mistakes. You must learn and be adaptable whether your body is not performing as you’d hoped, or your gear is not working, or external factors change unexpectedly. The critical thing is that we develop our ability to accept, adapt, and learn from all that we experience. And that’s why every day, every step is a new adventure.
This week I’ve met folks from Oklahoma, Texas, Idaho, and Pennsylvania who have come to hike the Sisters Loop Trail. I welcomed them all to play in our backyard.
Mt Thielsen is the first peak to welcome north-bound PCT hikers. I climbed Thielsen last year and could see into Crater Lake from the summit.This group provided some much needed trail magic at Summit Lake near Diamond Peak; some Oregon hospitality.Diamond Peak from the north is normally not visible from below. This basin has a lot to explore and climb.Walking towards my beloved South Sister, it does feel like my backyard.North and Middle Sisters from the north show the glaciers and ruggedness of this area.I was wrong in an earlier post, this is the way to Mordor.Really, it can’t possibly be almost over. The celebration for completing mileage is getting a bit more subdued.
"Welcome to the Hotel California
Such a lovely place (Such a lovely place)
Such a lovely face
Plenty of room at the Hotel California
Any time of year (Any time of year)
You can find it here
Last thing I remember, I was
Running for the door
I had to find the passage back
To the place I was before
"Relax, " said the night man,
"We are programmed to receive.
You can check-out any time you like,
But you can never leave!"
<start massive air guitar solo here>
Don Henley / Glenn Lewis Frey / Don Felder
The theme song for this blog has been running through my head for 400 miles. I was wondering whether I would ever leave. The California section of the PCT is overwhelming, 1692 miles and a gross elevation gain of 257K feet. And true to the song, the majority of PCT hikers never leave. An estimated 80% of hikers that start the PCT do not finish, and from my observations, most drop out before hitting the Oregon border. It took me 79 hiking days and 22 miles a day to leave. I was struck when standing here that almost two-thirds of the journey is behind me – even more reason to savor every day.
Only the northern terminus milestone on the US/Canadian border is more significant to me than completing California. It felt so good to hike the 20 miles through the Siskiyous and into Ashland through thick forests. I found the passage back to the place I was before.
My blog and photos have been a walking ad for the beauty of California, a great state, to be sure. As I leave, I also have some friendly feedback for the state that considers itself Oregon’s big brother. First, was it really necessary to wind all over the place to see every mountain range? The drive from the Oregon border to Mexico on I-5 is 807 miles. So why did you ask the PCT thru-hikers to hike over twice that many miles? I feel that you are trying a bit too hard to affirm your status. Oregon, home to the humble and efficient beavers, asks hikers to walk 460 miles compared to a 309 mile drive up I-5. We have other incredible sights to share, like the Alvord Desert and the Eagle Cap Wilderness. We could have used a zigzag course and pushed the miles up to a respectable 700 or so. The same is true for Washington. We are missing the Olympic National park, how about a thru-hiker ferry ride?
You get my point; I love you, California, but now I am excited to come home to the forests, bugs, and volcanos. We got this, and you are welcome to visit and leave whenever you want. Here are some funky photos to close this chapter of the journey.
Good intentions aside, this sign on Mt. Laguna from my third day wins the award for least helpful and most discouraging.The Coulter Pine wins the award for best pine cone. The cones have half-inch knife-like hooks and can weigh up to 11 pounds. No wonder Coulter pines carry the nickname of “widowmakers,” but I believe most life insurance policies exclude this cause of death.Near Deep Creek Canyon, I kept hearing revving engines. The trail crossed this “road,” which turns out to be a famous off-road challenge course. And people think hiking 12 hours a day is wacko. The trail passed under I-15, and I just kept walking towards the light. Then I started wondering whether that is what I was supposed to do.Vasquez Rocks in Agua Dulce brings trail weary PCT hikers through one of Hollywood’s favorite movie sets. Before clicking on this link, test your movie trivia skills and name at least two movies set in this location.Hiker Town is the “gateway” to the 40-mile trek across the Mojave Desert. The owner gave me a 30′ description of how he bought the land when he learned that then-Governor Schwarzenegger planned to create a subdivision for 100K people in this area. After buying it, he was shocked that homeless people kept stopping by asking for water. It was then he learned about the PCT. The housing development never happened due to a lack of water, so he and his wife created an oasis that is free for the many thru-hikers that pass each year. We stopped at a remote campground and were invited to join this group of men that had prepared cornish game hens and other goodies for thru-hikes. It turns out that we were being hosted by the current PCTA Board President and other board members. My son Scott is featured in the best sunset photo, and it also captures how tough it is to choose one’s freeze-dried dinner after a long day. I think biscuits and gravy was the winner.Scott and I were trying to figure out where Forester Pass was from the top of Mt. Whitney. Good thing there are trails and navigation apps or we would still be wandering around out there.I loved this DIY Trail Angel stop in the middle of nowhere with all the things a hiker might need and even solar lights for late-night hikers. Limit Situation Trail Magic was unbelievable. This group of friends set up four days a week to support PCT hikers. The food was amazing; custom-made pizza, homemade burgers, and salads. They even gave us their really cool bandana. If hikers want, you can stay for the evening, and they will cook breakfast. Really good people who feel that spending time in nature is a worthwhile and important experience.My most dangerous fall came while trying to cross this snowfield before Carson Pass. With the rest of the hikers, I believed the snow was behind us and did not have microspikes. I fell while crossing above the snowfield with exposure to over a hundred-foot steep fall into the rocks. Somehow, I pushed off as I fell and landed on the trail. Every step matters and this one was a massive wake-up call.The PCT maps missed the fact that we were crossing through the State of Jefferson. Apparently, Seiad Valley was the epicenter to get statehood back in the 1930s, and then WW2 got in the way. The general store has all the State of Jefferson items for sale that you might be looking for. Any aspiring graphic artists might want to help them out with their logo.Pleasure-Way has been hiking out with me or meeting me at the end of sections. This picture is heading north out of Sonora pass.
I dreaded the thru-hiking tradition of receiving a trail name. I made snarky comments to others like, “what is this, summer camp, come on.” Most people would shrug at my lack of creativity, but a Norwegian hiker vociferously countered my disdain. He said, “you see, the trail name is important, and it must be given to you by another hiker because something funny happened. When you meet people, you tell them your trail name and then your story – and they laugh and remember you.”
Ribs, Twister, Pilot, Pack Mule, and Rabbit
Upon some reflection, my reaction was masking some deeper insecurities. The idea of being given a trail name conjures unpleasant and downright mean nicknames. Since I am hiking solo and am coming off the trail to stay with my trail angel, I am not hanging out in the hiker hostels where the funny business truly happens. Who will know me or even care about the sexagenarian that hikes at a steady pace 12 hours a day – nothing funny or exciting about that. Even in high school, Shakespeare’s Juliet taught me the significance of our names when she asked, “What’s in a name?” But all that changed with my trail family.
I met Twister many miles ago and did him a favor by giving him a ride. When hiking together, we ran into the rest of the crew, drinking at high noon in Agua Dulce. By chance, I camped with them after crossing the Mojave – and a family with no name was formed. Our family was diverse in years, with 30, 40, 50, and 60-year-olds. We hiked hard for eight days together, covering almost 25 miles a day.
As always, the daily conversation centered on water, how much we needed to carry, and whether there was a reliable source at day’s end. I realized that my trail angel could meet us with the van to provide water. But instead of just water, she brought ribs, beer, fruit, and more. Rabbit gave me the name Ribs and my motto – the trail provides. My name encourages me to pack more food, lest my ribs become a dominant torso feature. Beyond that, my name reminds me of my impermanence and calls me to be present for each and every step
My trail angel’s trail magic prowess grew. She has met and supported over fifty hikers with food and drink that make all the difference. Twister offered her a trail name, Pleasure-Way, to honor the van that she drives, becoming a beacon for those who need an extra boost to keep moving.
Hikers gathering for trail magic at an obscure road crossing
Twister, in red, offered the name Pleasure Way, after feasting on chicken beer, fruit, and Pop Tarts
Miyagi, Twister, and Pack Mule making quick work of carbo-loading for the upcoming 2K foot climb
For the first few days on the trail, I felt like I was setting the agenda. That bubble burst this week. After ten days and 200+ miles, it is clear that the trail and everything surrounding it provide the experience, and I am here to learn (one way or another). My lesson so far is to connect with what is, don’t add my delusional views, whether blissful, angry, or needy. Then I must decide what I will make of it. I will be relearning this lesson every day, and I sense there are many chapters to come.
Crossing a welcoming meadow north of Warner springs.
Segment 2 started with two hot days, little water, and questionable sources. With 10K feet of climbing, I began to get angry, thirsty, and hungry. All these growing obsessions were neither accurate nor helpful. The bliss-meter took a nosedive. I found refuge at Mike’s Place, a renowned oasis in the Lost Valley of all places. Never has a tortilla filled with a hot dog slathered in refried beans tasted so good.
This was one of the better water sources.Good strumming and conversation at Mike’s Place.Encouragement from previous travelers.
I climbed the San Jacinto mountains for the next three days, known as one of the PCT’s most challenging and dangerous sections due to the exposure and volatile weather. On the first day, I faced 60-mile hour winds and on the second deep snow. It is beautiful, but every few steps, I post-holed waist-deep, risking injury. I decided to detour around the final 30 miles as an even stronger wind storm approached. My learning was put to the test as my ego argued against all evidence to fight through the conditions and my fatigue. I chose to learn and hike another day. Well, now, my trail angel just arrived.
Climbing into San Jacinto.I started to post-hole on every step and quickly lost the trail. Following other tracks only made it worse as they also wandered through the basin.
I am sitting in a peaceful campground outside of Julian, California, enjoying my first “zero.” For thru-hikers, a zero is a day off, meaning zero miles hiked that day. I have planned five zeros over the first 700 miles, so these are mighty precious. Since Alesia is supporting me in our van, I have been able to stay in the vehicle at some road crossings. It has helped me push the mileage and recover more effectively, an incredible advantage as I get myself into PCT shape.
Crossing the 100-mile mark
Alesia’s family knows how to read and interpret box scores. I can’t do either – but here is my PCT box score for the 1st of 26 segments. In five days, I covered 109 miles with 12K feet of climbing. All 26 segments comprise 2650 miles and 390K feet of climbing. The home team is off to a great start. Other statistics include bliss-meter pegged at 110%, 0 injuries, 0 blisters, 0 sunburns, and 0 rattlesnake bites. I went from COVID-19 zoom-zombie to a 10 hour per day hiker, which just shouldn’t happen on paper. I ended up doing this segment one day faster than planned. Here are a few photos from the journey so far. I fell in love with the rugged and vast terrain from Campo to Warner Springs.
Looking back at Scissors Crossing, where we boondocked.An amazing meadow with wildflowers near Warner Springs.I crossed this meadow near sunset.Eagle Rock near Warner Springs.Bliss meter pegged, even as I finished a 32-mile day.
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