With a grateful heart, I say hello to my family, friends, trail family, and fellow pilgrims near and far. Your continued interest is inspiring and makes me realize how our actions contribute to one another in unseen ways. I have been surprised to see folks from 21 countries and five continents tuning into my story. I asked a colleague upon my return, “why would anyone besides family, friends, and other hikers be interested in my blog?” She said, “I know why; this past two years, we have all been on our own trail as we navigated a global pandemic. Any story that inspires or informs is helpful.”
I promised an update on my experience coming off the trail in a blog about Post Trail Adjustment Disorder. But first, here is my unexpected pick for the song that most inspired me while hiking the PCT. Despite the myriad of rocking numbers from my formative years and those given to me by my fellow hikers, this song and album took me deep every time, and it still does. It makes me feel like a natural human.
A way over yonder
Is a place I have seen
In a garden of wisdom
From some long ago dream
Oh yeah
Carole King, Way Over Yonder, Tapestry 1971
The deep forests of Oregon and Washington led to surprises around every corner with quiet solitude.
The most challenging question that I faced when returning from the trail was, “what does it feel like to return to real life.” I have asked that same question of others, but weirdly, I completely froze. What was going through my mind was which life is real life. Walking in nature day after day with few responsibilities or supporting my family, job, and being a functional member of society. The answer is both. My natural life and my civilized life are both real. The interesting question is how to merge them as much as possible.
What Worked from my Post Trail Adjustment Plan
I identified three areas to work on to ease me back into civilized life. The first was finding meaning in my experience by connecting with interested people. This practice has worked incredibly well. A dozen people have gone deep into my experience, and their perspectives have opened new insights for me. I also shared my insights with my Zen community in several settings. In my relationship with others, I see new facets of my experience. Merging perspectives is the best example of bringing my two “real” lives together. I look forward to connecting with fellow hikers because we share something beyond words, and hearing how this experience unfolds for them is a precious mirror.
Magic Marker and I hiked Browder Ridge in Oregon on a beautiful fall day. The conversation was even more moving, and I learned so much from sharing our post-trail journeys.
My second practice was to find new ways to exert my body to bring me joy and continue my ongoing connection at a cellular level. This practice revealed some unexpected issues. The big one is that I had not realized how much muscle I had lost in my upper body. After doing more research, people in their 60’s and beyond lose a higher percentage of muscle mass with a drop in weight than younger adults. I dropped as much as 19 pounds and then kept increasing my food to get back to a 13-pound loss. The other issue is that I will have a more challenging time metabolizing protein to build back muscle. So, my practice now includes a virtual personal trainer and a lot of weight lifting. Instead of wanting to keep the weight off, now I want to gain it all back in the form of muscle.
The other practice was to get back on the trail. One of my best motivations to push my PCT mileage was to have time in September to travel with Pleasure-Way to visit our son and fiancée in Switzerland. We combined that with some fantastic hiking in the Jungfrau region, and my body just loved to feel the trail again.
Hiking with Pleasure-Way in the Jungfrau region of Switzerland was magical – we even had a local resident serenade us with his yodeling.
What Hasn’t Worked from my Post Trail Adjustment Plan
The third practice I identified was to examine and change habits that no longer serve. I have made a few minor changes, like drinking less caffeine, but others prove very difficult. For example, I am a chronic list-maker and can obsess over what I check off rather than being fully present with each step along the way. I am struggling with media consumption and had to turn off most of my feeds. Habits that don’t serve me seeped right back into my civilized life without asking permission. I will need to work hard to retire habits well past their expiration date with kindness and toughness. In the Zen tradition, these obstacles are teachers who have come to guide us down life’s trail. I look forward to swapping stories.
Have you have ever thought about becoming a dedicated trail angel or hoped that someone would take on this role during your thru-hike? If so, this blog is for you. I caught up to Pleasure-Way for an exclusive interview about her secrets to being the best trail angel on the PCT in 2021.
Thank you for taking the time to join me today now that you have moved out of your van. My readers have been asking – what is the real story behind your trail name, Pleasure-Way?
Pleasure-Way:As is the tradition, my trail name was offered to me by a hiker, Twister, and I decided to go with it. I get some smiles and comments when people first hear it but bringing pleasure to thru-hikers in the form of food, and moral support is what trail magic is all about. It is also the van’s name, so hikers make the connection right away.
Ribs and Scott preparing for entering the Sierra with Pleasure-Way.
Your name certainly worked; I have met hikers that knew about Pleasure-Way and had no idea who Ribs was. How long were you living on the road, and what were some of the high and low points you faced?
Pleasure-Way: Staying in the van for the better part of five months was certainly a new experience. I was very comfortable driving and operating the vehicle and covered over 13K miles since leaving home. The van gave me a feeling of self-sufficiency, and I could control my physical space during the spring when the vaccine rollout was ramping up. I enjoyed the simplicity of living, exploring, and seeing new roads, parks, and towns from Mexico to Canada. I met a lot of interesting people, both thru-hikers and fellow travelers. I won’t miss laundromats or driving the steep and narrow roads without guardrails to get to some of the remote trailheads. I also won’t miss buying deli chicken for trail magic – a real hit with the hikers, but I hope I never see it again.
Pleasure-Way, at Scissors Crossing, was already meeting an interesting mix of past hikers that return every year to provide trail magic.On the road again, Pleasure-Way got to know California’s HWY 395 quite well.Pleasure-Way had to navigate blazing heat, snow, and wildfires.
How would you describe your role in terms of supporting Ribs?
Pleasure-Way:My overall role was to provide options for meeting to make Rib’s life a little easier. There was a chance for a shower, home-cooked meal, and equipment exchange (no longer need that ice ax? trade out the old shoes?) as well as a chance to fill out the wish list (new items from REI, specific food requests). We would exchange food supplies for garbage, clean clothes for dirty, and reassess the plan for the next segment.
Coming off the trail at Stevens Pass – the trail magic begins.All the resupply gear was in labeled boxes making repacking and gear changes easy
What was the most challenging part of supporting Ribs?
Pleasure-Way: The biggest challenge was that the plan changed constantly. We learned this early on when Ribs hiked faster than expected – so the initial plan, which had campground reservations up until Kennedy Meadows, was flawed from the get-go. I had little problem making new reservations in the spring, but it became harder to find open spots as summer began. I discovered fewer available campgrounds with hookups north of Kennedy Meadows, so I had to rely more on private RV parks. Some RV parks were very nice, like the Mountain Gate RV Park south of Shasta Lake. Other locations along the way were less inviting but met the needs for safety, power, water, and sewer. So, my biggest challenge was figuring out when and where to locate the Sprinter van when it was not a meetup day. I also learned that Ribs became very focused on the next trail segment and had trouble planning beyond that. I started making predictions and then adjusted as needed.
Life in the van became the new normal.Dusk at Lake Cahuilla Regional Park near Palm Desert.
My takeaway from your last answer is that you would create detailed plans and be okay if Ribs hiked faster or made some other changes and then you would do it all again – sounds frustrating. I guess that’s why they call you a trail angel. What was the most fun aspect of being a part of this hiking team? Beyond the logistical support, what did you find was needed to support Ribs from a psychological or emotional perspective?
Pleasure-Way:I truly enjoyed hearing the stories from the trail and getting to know other thru-hikers in real-time. At first, Ribs was reluctant to connect with other hikers and was self-conscious about my support. I jumped in and started engaging other hikers, and we both enjoyed being a part of their hiking teams. His physical stamina improved, so he looked fresh coming off the trail, but I noticed early on that he was not tracking day-to-day life as is usual. For example, I told him about a young swimmer from Alaska, Lydia Jacoby, winning a swimming gold medal. It caught my attention since my parents met in Alaska. He asked if it was at the world championships. He did not even know the summer Olympics were going on, one of his favorite sporting events. I tried to be patient and actively listened when he came off the trail, offering positive reinforcement that this was doable for him. I reviewed my latest plan with him for feedback rather than creating it together.
It was common for Pleasure-Way to transport hikers to and from the trail head.Pleasure-Way, Ribs and family greeting a young family with some young girls who are very interested in becoming PCT hikers.
It sounds like you also had to deal with a lot of uncertainty about Rib’s condition when he came off the trail. What did you both do to get him recharged and back on the trail?
Pleasure-Way: We became experts at overnight meetups at trail/road intersections to resupply and get him back on the trail in the morning. We did this 30 times, which was a key reason we pulled so much time out of the original plan. Ribs provided pretty accurate estimates when he would arrive, and he pushed the mileage to arrive in the afternoon. In some cases, I would hike down the trail to meet him, which was fun. I had some high-calorie foods for immediate consumption to start the recovery. He would typically shower, and we would talk about the upcoming trail segment. He would then unload and re-load his pack using a checklist with different gear based on the length and weather conditions. We had a duplicate set of clothing, making it an easy swap. Originally, Ribs only wrote blog posts when he took a day off (zero-day). He started reducing zero-days as the hike progressed, so he would dictate the blog on the trail and then edit it and post that night. Dinners became increasingly simpler as the hike progressed to suit his changing dietary needs. He was typically out on the trail by 6 AM the following day.
Ribs getting his first blast of calories after getting to the van. Finishing a blog post after dinner before heading out the next morning.Pleasure-Way sent Ribs out with a killer breakfast including protein blueberry/banana pancakes, three eggs, fruit and more.
Wow, your description reminds me of a pit-stop in the Indianapolis 500, except you are changing tires on a thru-hiker. What tools did you develop or use to be so successful?
Pleasure-Way: One of the most important tools used during the five months was a daily itinerary of the hiking plan over the entire PCT. Ribs created the first version to capture his initial guess. I used this tool to plan the hiking segments, resupplies, overnight meetups, and zero-days. It was created to be easily modified along the way and, in the end, serves as a detailed diary of each’s day’s progress. Ribs communicated his location and how he was doing every night from the trail using a Garmin satellite device which kept us connected and informed. I was also able to update him on any weather and fire concerns.
I took this initial plan and noted intersections of the trail with roads accessible by our Sprinter van. The large state atlases helped find the roads, but the crucial pieces were the National Geographic PCT trail maps and the Guthook app. After finding an intersection, I would map it through google maps to evaluate the route and check for road closures. I would complete the analysis with a final check back to the atlas to ensure that the road was drivable. In general, I tried to stay on paved roads since the quality of gravel/dirt roads is hard to predict (my vehicle wasn’t 4WD).
Pleasure-Way’s headquarters to do her logistics magic from Brite Lake.Pleasure-Way’s view while staying at lake Almanor.
My takeaway is that you were the one keeping track of the overall logistics and figuring out when and where you could deliver trail magic. All Ribs had to do was walk 12 hours a day; frankly, it seems like he had the easy job. What did you do on the days when you were not together?
Pleasure-Way: I needed to develop a second plan besides the PCT to park and stay in the Sprinter van safely. I could go 3-4 days without electrical or water hookups, staying for free on BLM lands or campgrounds. We would often boondock at the trailhead or in nearby BLM land or NFS campground for overnight meetups.
The ideal situation for me on my alone days was to find a centrally located campground with hookups. One of my favorites was the Brite Lake Campground, a county park outside of Tehachapi, California. I had ten days there, very happy to have the electrical hookup to allow for air conditioning. Sometimes I picked up Ribs and brought him to stay the night in the campground, but other times I met Ribs and stayed at the trailhead, returning to the campground the following day.
I was surprised to find that getting a hotel wasn’t a relaxing break for the most part. It did not remove the need to care for the Sprinter van (where to park, how to keep its power, etc.) For example, I was given a Mother’s Day present to stay in a nice hotel at Mammoth Lakes. I found out just before dark that they recommended I not leave any food in the vehicle because bears will break into unattended vehicles, even RVs, to get the food. I hauled my food, as well as Rib’s food supplies, into the hotel room.
Pleasure-Way giving Ribs encouragement as he left Trout Lake in Washington.
Thank you for telling us your secrets – I have a much better understanding of what it took to be the best trail angel in 2021. No wonder Ribs says that you are the key to his successful PCT thru-hike. What are the top five things our readers should know before taking on your role as a dedicated thru-hiker trail angel?
Pleasure-Way:
Be patient, expect constant change, both of the route and the needs of the thru-hiker.
Find meaningful ways to connect with others.
Let others know where you are.
When possible, stay where you have internet/cell connectivity to keep from being isolated – have frequent phone calls with family and friends.
Buy two Garmin satellite communicators, one for the hiker and one for the van, to stay in touch when either one is without cell coverage.
To hike the Pacific Crest Trail in one season has always been a difficult proposition for all but the speediest of hikers. In the south, one must cross the desert sections before it is too hot, navigate the Sierra after the snow clears sufficiently from the high passes, and complete the North Cascades before the snow starts. Those historical barriers are trivial compared to the unprecedented wildfires that have engulfed the western US. Two days ago, the PCT was closed on all national forests in California, ending the journey for all southbound thru-hikers and section hikers.
Fire Incidents in California follow the PCT route through most of the state. (source: Information Incident System, Aug 2, 2021, https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/)
This year, I thread the needle by starting at the end of March and hiking some of the northern California sections while the Sierra snow melted. I also covered 22.5 miles per day versus my plan of 17, thereby reducing my hiking time by almost 40 days. These decisions certainly improved my chances of hiking the entire trail. I started facing the effect of fires at Mt. Shasta, and they continued for the next 1,150 miles in Oregon and Washington. The smoke reduced my views and made me nervous, but I did not need to leave the trail. I was lucky. Even before the total closure, north-bound hikers behind me dodged fires in Northern California and had to skip hundreds of miles of the beautiful forests that I hiked only a month earlier. I fear that the 2022 PCT hikers will face hundreds of miles of devastated forests or, more likely, face trail closures in much of California.
My most challenging day on the PCT was a 30-mile hike through the 2020 North Complex fire during the heatwave in late June. The overwhelming sense of loss, combined with searing heat from above and reflected heat from the glassified soil, took everything out of me. The fire killed 16 people, including a 16-year-old boy, and injured more than 100. The complex burned an estimated 318,935 acres.
What are the experts saying about wildfires?
In August, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) published its 4,000-page Working Group I Sixth Assessment Report on the state of Climate Change worldwide. The IPCC is sponsored by the United Nations and World Meteorological Organization. Chapter 11 of the report discusses “Weather and Climate Extreme Events in a Changing Climate.” What the research and climate models are showing, and what we are all experiencing, is the increased frequency and severity of these climate events. For example, only twice in recorded history have wildfires started on the western side of the Sierra and burned through the Sierra to the eastern side. They are both happening right now. The Dixie and Caldor fires alone have already burned more than 1M acres, and South Lake Tahoe may not survive. The toxic smoke from these mega-fires and many more are causing hazardous air quality eastward for up to 1000 miles.
"It is an established fact that human-induced greenhouse gas emissions have led to an increased frequency and/or intensity of some weather and climate extremes since pre-industrial time, in particular for temperature extremes." (pg 2776, line 17-19)
Compound events, where multiple extreme events of either different or similar types occur simultaneously and/or in succession, may be more probable or severe in the future. These compound events can often impact ecosystems and societies more strongly than when such events occur in isolation. For example, a drought along with extreme heat will increase the risk of wildfires and agriculture damages or losses. As individual extreme events become more severe as a result of climate change, the combined occurrence of these events will create unprecedented compound events. This could exacerbate the intensity and associated impacts of these extreme events." (pg 2889, line 32-38)
IPCC Working Group I Sixth Assessment Report
When you are hiking, you often only see smoke. How do we protect ourselves? Photo by Mike Lewelling, National Park Service, featured on the Pacific Crest Trail Association website.
What can thru-hikers do?
The first thing is that we need to protect ourselves while hiking on the trail. The Pacific Crest Trail Association (PCTA) has published a page on this very topic, How to react to wildfires. I, for one, was not aware of some of the measures hikers need to take in the presence of smoke. Thru-hikers frequently don’t have mobile connectivity to monitor websites tracking wildfires, and the fires change direction and intensity rapidly. Fortunately, Pleasure-Way was monitoring wildfires and weather and sending me information on my Garmin satellite device. I will write the PCTA and Garmin to see how hikers could be warned more effectively through their satellite devices. Many hikers carry these devices, and it is common to share information and even let hikers who do not have them use them for communication.
This picture of a PCT thru-hiker running for their life after the Chimney Fire took over a campground makes the risk we face very real. Photo by Elliot Schwimmer featured on the Pacific Crest Trail Association website.
All is not lost. The IPCC report outlines how a worldwide effort to cut carbon emissions rapidly to eliminate them by 2050 could cap preindustrial global warming at 1.5 degrees Celsius. Even that best-case scenario means we will experience one new extreme climate event after another. Doing nothing and allowing the global temperature to rise 3 or 4 degrees Celsius will further increase the frequency and magnitude of compound events and lead to the death of countless living organisms, including humans. There is no better example of putting the saying, “think globally, act locally,” into action.
I started to fear my post-PCT adjustment about one month before completion. Ironically, I was also facing some resistance to hiking, particularly in the morning. I have been off the trail one week and decided to open the next chapter of my journey – returning home.
I coined the term Post Trail Adjustment Disorder (PTAD) to describe my transition experiences. The Mayo Clinic describes adjustment disorders as “conditions resulting in more stress than would normally be expected in response to a stressful or unexpected event, and the stress causes significant problems in your relationships, at work or school.” There is little written on this topic for thru-hikers, and what I found is labeled post-trail depression, which presumes that the only response to this transition is depression. One thing is for sure; the experience changes all thru-hikers. Understanding how to harness those changes for the better is not at all apparent.
Starting in Washington, hikers wrote messages on the PCT trail markers nailed into the trees. The markers were there to help keep us on the trail, but these comments provoked larger questions such as “how have I changed?”
I talked to 10+ hikers that had previously completed one or more multi-month thru-hikes. They shared stories of being disoriented for up to three months and not seamlessly returning to the flow of “normal” life. The disruption seemed to be more pronounced if they had quit their job before the hike or left their previous residence and needed to start afresh upon their return. Some were using the trail as a means for reflection or navigating a significant life change. For others, hiking the trail at this time was opportunistic such as after completing a degree. Universally, hikers did not want to lose their physical capacity or gain unwanted weight, which is common after our caloric needs plummet.
Curiosity
Of all the virtues
I find one opens all doors,
curiosity.
Ribs
The most powerful tool I have to navigate uncertainty is curiosity. Simply shifting an experience from a reaction to a question changes my ability to learn and adjust rapidly. Below is my approach to navigating this transition, and I plan to journal daily and then post what I learned and what worked in a month.
Finding Meaning
Even after one week, the richness and depth of my experience are starting to fade. It would be easy to dismiss my journey as a passing phase, a vacation, or perhaps a selfish attempt to be young again. I will explore several questions to find meaning in my hiking and transition experience.
How did the hiking experience change how I perceive and engage the world around me?
What aspects of those changes do I intend to bring into my daily life, and what practices are most effective?
Connect with people that want to discuss my experience to internalize my insights and learn from their perspectives.
Bring these experiences back into the present through walking and seated meditation.
Observe what situations in my daily life are most disruptive to these desired states.
Experiment with on-the-go practices to bring me back to my desired state when disrupted.
Exerting my Body
One thing I learned is that my body likes to be used to its fullest capacity. Exerting my body brings me joy and creates an ongoing connection at a cellular level.
What physical activities bring me joy and build on my new capacity?
What practices bring exerting my body into my daily life?
Experiment with new ways to exert my body to build new capabilities such as strength and flexibility.
Develop a weekly plan to integrate these practices into my daily life.
Experiment with on-the-go body scan practices to keep my body engaged during the day.
Changing Habits
I am a creature of habit; we all are. Habits are not bad. They are essential to efficiently move through a complex world, like putting my keys and wallet in the same place when I come into the house. That said, habits often outlive their original purpose and become unexamined behavioral traps. Returning from four months on the trail is the perfect time to examine and change habits that no longer serve. For example, I drank one cup of coffee per day during my hike, and I immediately reverted to my 5+ cups upon my return.
Which of my newly developed habits from the trail would serve me in my daily life?
What old habits are returning, and which do I wish to end or change during the transition?
Recreate my trail routine for one week to remember and examine the habits I created to hike for 12 hours a day safely.
Identify trail habits that I can integrate into my daily life.
Observe and journal my old habits as I return to daily life.
Identify those I wish to end or change and a specific approach to do so for each one.
Last summer, during a training hike, I met a couple who had completed the PCT in 2015. We had a great discussion about why they enjoyed it so much and what it took to complete it. I then ask them whether I was too old, and they laughed and shared that an 82-year-old was keeping up with them during sections of their hike. The conversation concluded with this summary remark; “it’s a mental journey, not a physical one.”
As I’ve thought about that conversation, I have wondered how can 2,650 miles all be in one’s mind. I started meditating with the Corvallis Zen Circle ten years ago to develop my awareness. Jon Kabat-Zinn, internationally known for his work as a scientist, writer, and meditation teacher, defines awareness as “paying attention in the present moment, non-judgmentally.” I asked my Zen teacher, Abby Mushin Terris, for a Koan to guide my inquiry. Koans are unanswerable questions, at least through our everyday thought processes. After listening to my description, she offered the following Koan, “what mind is walking?” This question yielded some immediate surprises.
The first surprise is that during the early weeks when I was getting angry, depressed, or anxious about the hike, I could trace that anxiety to what I describe as my thinking mind. The thinking mind is a magnificent problem-solving machine, but it’s best when it has good information. At the start, I had a limited understanding of what was in store for me or whether I could complete this journey. When people would ask whether I was hiking to Canada, the only honest answer I could give was “I hope so, but I don’t know.” These kinds of answers drive the thinking mind crazy. With no tangible information to go on, I noticed it swirling into ever-changing stories and distractions that fueled my anxiety.
The second surprise came from observing my body walking. Using my awareness, I observed my body’s sensations, emotions, and thoughts while hiking all day. Walking over continuously changing terrain is complex. It is no wonder that roboticists have taken decades to develop robots that can marginally imitate how humans walk. I noticed how my body anticipated and applied thinking in real-time. For example, I observed that a split second before I stumble, multiple parts of my body had shifted their position in anticipation of the stumble, such as my arm position and the tightened grip of my hands on the hiking poles. I was not consciously aware that any of these actions had occurred even after I stumbled. So the question then is what mind is figuring all of this out if it is not my thinking mind located in my prefrontal cortex.
After hiking 1847 miles, I can share some insights into this question. In my case, I have identified 32 minds that are walking, and this is still evolving. They are all directly involved with getting me safely through each 12-hour day. These minds include individual joints and muscles (left foot, right knee, left hip flexor, etc.), organs (lungs, heart, bowels, etc.), senses (sight, hearing, balance, etc.), and my thinking mind. One technique used in meditation practice is to use your awareness to observe individual parts of your body, known as a body scan. I spend about one hour twice a day doing a body scan. I connect with each of these “walking-minds” by observing them and establish a direct connection as the day progresses.
My third surprise is the most important. I observed that my body loves to walk. It’s not necessary for me to will my way mile after mile while playing pump-up music. I don’t need any motivation at all; my body is designed to walk, and it feels rewarding. This practice has taken a great burden from my thinking mind. Now that I am in direct contact with the crucial systems of my body needed for walking, my thinking mind can focus on what it’s good at, like planning my route, finding water, solving problems, and applying its creative capacity.
Before you write this post off as the rantings of a crazed thru-hiker, I suggest you try this for yourself. During a walk, spend time focusing on one part of your body, like your left foot, and see whether your relationship with it changes. When would-be hikers ask me, my summary remark will be something like, “it’s a mental journey, and you need to engage the intelligence of both mind and body.”
Here are a few photos from my first 150 miles in Oregon!
It is so refreshing to hike in forests again and to see the 100 shades of green on display on Mt. Ashland.Just after entering Oregon, I entered a field of Bear Grass in bloom. I did not see a single instance of this before arriving home.The approach to Crater Lake covers about 10 miles of lava fields. The skill of the trail makers was impressive.The PCT has an alternate route that follows the Crater Lake Rim Trail. Pleasure-Way joined me to enjoy this national treasure.Wizard Island shouts mystery and adventure.
I dreaded the thru-hiking tradition of receiving a trail name. I made snarky comments to others like, “what is this, summer camp, come on.” Most people would shrug at my lack of creativity, but a Norwegian hiker vociferously countered my disdain. He said, “you see, the trail name is important, and it must be given to you by another hiker because something funny happened. When you meet people, you tell them your trail name and then your story – and they laugh and remember you.”
Ribs, Twister, Pilot, Pack Mule, and Rabbit
Upon some reflection, my reaction was masking some deeper insecurities. The idea of being given a trail name conjures unpleasant and downright mean nicknames. Since I am hiking solo and am coming off the trail to stay with my trail angel, I am not hanging out in the hiker hostels where the funny business truly happens. Who will know me or even care about the sexagenarian that hikes at a steady pace 12 hours a day – nothing funny or exciting about that. Even in high school, Shakespeare’s Juliet taught me the significance of our names when she asked, “What’s in a name?” But all that changed with my trail family.
I met Twister many miles ago and did him a favor by giving him a ride. When hiking together, we ran into the rest of the crew, drinking at high noon in Agua Dulce. By chance, I camped with them after crossing the Mojave – and a family with no name was formed. Our family was diverse in years, with 30, 40, 50, and 60-year-olds. We hiked hard for eight days together, covering almost 25 miles a day.
As always, the daily conversation centered on water, how much we needed to carry, and whether there was a reliable source at day’s end. I realized that my trail angel could meet us with the van to provide water. But instead of just water, she brought ribs, beer, fruit, and more. Rabbit gave me the name Ribs and my motto – the trail provides. My name encourages me to pack more food, lest my ribs become a dominant torso feature. Beyond that, my name reminds me of my impermanence and calls me to be present for each and every step
My trail angel’s trail magic prowess grew. She has met and supported over fifty hikers with food and drink that make all the difference. Twister offered her a trail name, Pleasure-Way, to honor the van that she drives, becoming a beacon for those who need an extra boost to keep moving.
Hikers gathering for trail magic at an obscure road crossing
Twister, in red, offered the name Pleasure Way, after feasting on chicken beer, fruit, and Pop Tarts
Miyagi, Twister, and Pack Mule making quick work of carbo-loading for the upcoming 2K foot climb
I have turned the corner and started to head north again. I am taking a zero and will restart the trail on mile 511. I have achieved a significant milestone – crossing the 500-mile mark, but it is bittersweet. I had to skip miles 486 – 511 due to a trail closure because of the Lake Fire. This is the second section of the trail closed by recent forest fires.
Ideas for what to write typically come and go. This post has been with me for three weeks emotionally, even though the pieces don’t seem evident on an intellectual level. Sharing what I am experiencing on the trail can feel like trying to explain a dream to someone – so please bear with me.
Apache Peak fire after 12 years
As soon as I started climbing mountains in Southern California, I experienced the scale and devastation of their wildfires. Many areas of the trail have been closed due to unstable soil and the danger of falling debris. The above photo from Apache Peak shows the damage 12 years later. I live in the northwest; I am used to hiking through some burned sections of the forest. But here, it is the norm – day after day.
Ten miles north of Apache Peak
I noticed my pattern of ignoring the burned sections and pushing through to the lush forest. The dense forests along the PCT in Southern California are few and far between. I understand that forest fires play a role in natural ecosystems. Still, we have crossed into a new regime of fires that burn hotter and more frequently fueled by higher temperatures, frequent interaction with humans, and misguided fire suppression methods.
Holding the wisdom of generations
I’ve always had a thing for trees. I befriend trees in our local forests and look forward to visiting them. I feel comforted by them, and they give me a sense of wisdom that spans the generations. On the trail, I have started touching them to connect on a different level and sometimes even chew on a small piece of bark. Many date back 400 years or more, and although they are independent, they survive together. Thru-hiking into a grove immediately calls me to attention.
Los Angeles Forest (taken by “Twister”)
To see even one, let alone scores of these wise giants, fall together gives me a feeling of extreme loss. They know how to withstand fires, and by the time they reach maturity, they have seen many fires come and go, and their bark bears these scars. But they were not built to withstand the infernos of these times.
Bill and I playing in the White Clouds
The unexpected and tragic loss in the natural environment has frequently brought me back to those I have lost in life. My brother loved sharing wilderness adventures, was as kind, strong, and determined as they come, and became a kid when he was outdoors. We became two kids, the same ones who shared a bedroom for most of our childhood and talked about everything under the sun. He was swept away by cancer too young. He would have been so engaged in my hike, whether on the trail or giving me his full support.
Walking the trail provides a constant reminder of how fragile and precious life is – including the lives of all that share the earth with us.
I got a great present from my daughter several years ago, the book On Trails, by Robert Moor. The book went on to become a New York Times Bestseller. The story starts with Robert Moor’s rather dreadful hike on the Appalachian Trail when it rained most of the time. Staring at his feet all day led him to contemplate the trail itself, and from that inquiry grew a wonderful exploration of how trails form, how the information embedded in trails are sometimes passed from insect to mammal to native peoples to European settlers and to highway engineers. Moor shows how trails are really physical networks that capture information that teach us the way.
Climbing out of Cajon Pass.
As a PCT hiker, I am constantly looking for the trail. You quickly learn to discern the pattern far off in the distance for where the path leads. I find myself reacting once the direction is clear. “Ugh, we are climbing that, we just descended a ridge – what is wrong with these people!” Why on earth do I think I know a better way through the four hundred plus miles of rugged terrain than those that came before me? When I go on one of these rants, my new mantra is “the trail knows the way” because it actually does.
Big Bear Lake, after turning west.
None of the PCT trail puzzles are harder to grasp than the abrupt turn at Big Bear Lake from heading north to heading west. For nearly 200 miles, the trail is on a crash course for LA. In fact, the last few nights on the trail I have seen the twinkling lights of our second-largest city. Mt. Baden-Powel is less than 20 miles as the crows fly from Pasadena. I stayed with my mantra and enjoyed my first chance to explore this string of significant mountain ranges.
Pointing west to Mt. Baden-Powel
I am now starting to turn the corner to head back north (see the blue tab below). For all you trail and map geeks, I have a new treat. The Pacific Crest Trail Association has created a new interactive map that shows a great deal about this unique trail. Here is my current location on the new PCTA interactive map.
My 400-mile journey so far.
May all your journeys, whether to your garden, park, or local trails, bring you joy.
I just covered some beautiful and diverse terrain from I10 near Palm Springs at 2K feet to 8K feet above Big Bear Lake. I have completed 10% of the miles (250) and 20% of the climbing (71K) in 12 days. No wonder I am feeling it.
Soaking and icing my right ankle.
I have identified a valuable practice from my journey so far. By practice, I mean a way of engaging with my experience that makes it more vibrant, focused, and brings me joy. When I have become agitated, it tends to spiral producing increasing levels of negative energy. My hiking days last 11 hours on average, so that is a lot of time to spiral into a dark place.
A star’s ‘Death Spiral’ into a Black Hole | NASA.
So far, the area that most often needs attention is my mind. I will call my practice a walking body scan. I start by paying close attention to my left foot, observing how it lands and pushes off for at least 5 minutes. I acknowledge any discomfort and appreciate how amazing it is (already having stepped 130K times). Then I move to the right foot, the ankles, knees, leg muscles, glutes, abs, lungs, shoulders carrying the weight, and then my neck, face, and mind. After the scan, I return to the areas with tension. I can feel the stress pressing my temples as my mind tries to figure out or avoid this experience. I spend another 30 minutes focusing on releasing my mind’s pressure and, with it, the need to do anything but connect with my body and stay out of the way.
Prickly Pear cactus in bloom.From snow to 95° and back again.Amazing trees keep me company.
I had my lists, gear, and apps all ready to go. What I didn’t prepare for was entering the PCT community. I have been hiking forever, but these four stories are unique and happened in my first 48 hours on the trail.
The first happened when I was devouring a malt after my first day. A woman approached and talked for 10 minutes alternating between sharing stories about a PCT death last year, name-dropping trail angels (Bad Santa is the only one I can remember), and asking for my name and contact info. I had no idea how to respond. Later I realized the locals take ownership of the migrating flock of hikers from around the world who pass through these remote outposts.
Then I was hiking along, and I saw this cairn labyrinth. It was about 1/5 size for humans, but it was so intricate with small symbols to the thru-hikers. Someone in this tiny community came out and spent time making an offering.
Nearly everybody you pass on the trail offers encouragement. I met a six-year-old kid, and he stopped right in front of me and said, “mister, are you going to Canada?” I said, “I hope so,” and he gave me an approving nod. The kicker is when I came around a corner, and previous PCT hikers (“Raven” and “The 9th guy”) had set up a trail magic station full of fruit, snacks, and drinks. It was better than most aid stations on ultra-marathons I have run. They drove out from San Diego to pay it forward.
Last but not least, in terms of long-term impact, I was climbing Mt. Laguna, and I looked up to see a totally naked man hiking down. He greeted me with the same question as the six-year-old kid. I wish the picture in my mind could be deleted.
